What Is 3-Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17?
3-Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17 is a vitamin C derivative that has been linked to a short chain of two amino acids, known as Dipeptide-17. This pairing gives the molecule extra stability compared with pure vitamin C, so it is less likely to break down when exposed to air, light or water. The ingredient starts with L-ascorbic acid sourced from plants such as corn or sugarcane. Through a series of lab steps, chemists attach a carbonyl group and then bond the modified vitamin C to Dipeptide-17, creating a compound that is water soluble yet noticeably more resilient than its parent molecule.
Vitamin C derivatives began gaining popularity in skincare in the early 2000s when formulators searched for ways to deliver the brightening and collagen-supporting effects of vitamin C without the common drawbacks of irritation and instability. Peptide-linked forms like 3-Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17 emerged from this research and have since been incorporated into a range of cosmetic products.
You will most often find 3-Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17 in leave-on formulas where prolonged contact with the skin allows the ingredient to do its job. It is commonly used in serums, eye creams, moisturizers, brightening spot treatments and sheet masks designed to target visible dullness or the look of early aging.
3-Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is prized for one main function in skincare.
Skin conditioning: Once applied, 3-Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17 helps improve the overall feel and appearance of skin. It supports a smoother texture, encourages a more even tone and can leave the complexion looking fresher and more radiant. Because the molecule is more stable than pure vitamin C, it can deliver these benefits with a lower risk of oxidation or tingling, making it suitable for daily use in many formulations.
Who Can Use 3-Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17
This derivative of vitamin C is generally well tolerated by most skin types including oily, normal, dry and combination skin. Its gentle profile makes it a good option for sensitive skin because the peptide link helps cut down the sting that pure vitamin C can cause. Extremely reactive or compromised skin may still want to proceed with caution since any active ingredient has the potential to trigger a flare-up.
The compound is made in a lab from plant-sourced vitamin C and a synthetically produced dipeptide, so it contains no animal-derived material. That makes it suitable for both vegans and vegetarians as long as the finished product also meets cruelty-free standards.
No safety issues have been flagged for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used on the skin at cosmetic levels. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before starting a new product just to be safe.
3-Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17 does not increase the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, so it is not considered photosensitising. Daily sunscreen is still recommended because sun exposure can break down vitamin C derivatives and slow visible results.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical 3-Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17 differ from person to person. The following issues are possible yet uncommon when the ingredient is used as directed by a reputable brand.
- Mild tingling or warmth on application
- Temporary redness or flushing
- Dryness or tightness if layered with other strong actives
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis presenting as itching or small bumps
If any of these effects occur discontinue use and seek guidance from a medical professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 0–1 (very low)
3-Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17 is water soluble and contains no heavy oils, waxes or fatty acids that typically clog pores. Its small molecular size and peptide linkage allow it to absorb without leaving an occlusive film, so it is unlikely to trap sebum or debris inside follicles. For these reasons it earns a 0–1 rating, meaning it is considered non-comedogenic to minimally comedogenic.
Given this low rating, the ingredient is generally suitable for skin that is prone to acne or breakouts.
As with any cosmetic formula, the overall comedogenicity depends on the complete ingredient list so look at the product as a whole if congestion is a concern.
Summary
3-Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17 is a stabilized vitamin C derivative linked to a short peptide that conditions skin by smoothing texture, evening tone and promoting a fresher appearance. The peptide bond shields the ascorbic acid portion from rapid oxidation, letting it deliver antioxidant protection and support collagen while remaining gentle enough for daily use.
Although it is not yet as widespread as classic vitamin C derivatives like magnesium ascorbyl phosphate its presence is growing in modern serums and moisturizers aimed at brightening and first-signs-of-aging care.
Safety data show the ingredient is well tolerated with a low risk of irritation or pore clogging, making it a versatile choice for most skin types. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so it is wise to perform a small patch test before fully incorporating any new product that contains this compound.