What Is 3-Lauryl/Tridecylglyceryl Ascorbate?
3-Lauryl/Tridecylglyceryl Ascorbate is a modified form of vitamin C created by joining ascorbic acid with fatty alcohol–glycerin ethers made from lauryl and tridecyl alcohols. By attaching the vitamin to these lightweight lipids, chemists give the molecule a more oil-loving character, which helps it mix smoothly into creams and lotions. This tweak also shields the fragile vitamin C core from air and light, so it stays active longer on the shelf.
Vitamin C derivatives started appearing in cosmetics in the late 1980s as brands looked for ways to deliver the vitamin’s brightening and firming benefits without the rapid breakdown seen in pure ascorbic acid. 3-Lauryl/Tridecylglyceryl Ascorbate is one of the newer entries in this family, designed to balance stability, skin comfort and ease of formulation.
Manufacturers first react lauryl and tridecyl alcohols with glycerin to form gentle, water-binding ethers. These ethers are then bonded to ascorbic acid under controlled heat and pressure. The resulting ingredient comes out as a pale, oil-soluble liquid or soft paste that disperses well in emulsions.
You will most often spot 3-Lauryl/Tridecylglyceryl Ascorbate in lightweight serums, anti-aging creams, brightening lotions, sheet masks, eye treatments and daily moisturizers aimed at dullness or early fine lines.
3-Lauryl/Tridecylglyceryl Ascorbate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In skincare formulas this multitasking derivative delivers several sought-after actions:
- Antioxidant – helps neutralize free radicals created by UV rays and pollution, supporting a more even tone and slowing the look of premature aging
- Humectant – attracts and holds water in the upper skin layers so the surface feels softer and looks plumper
- Skin conditioning – smooths texture, boosts suppleness and can enhance the overall feel of a product on the skin
Who Can Use 3-Lauryl/Tridecylglyceryl Ascorbate
This derivative suits most skin types including dry, normal, combination and even oily or sensitive skin because its balanced oil-water profile delivers hydration without a sharp drop in pH that can sting. Extremely acne-prone users may still prefer lightweight formulas to avoid pore congestion, but the ingredient itself is considered low clogging.
The component building blocks are typically sourced from plant materials like coconut or palm oils and corn-derived vitamin C, so finished products are usually acceptable for vegans and vegetarians. Anyone strictly avoiding animal inputs should still check with the specific brand for confirmation of sourcing and manufacturing practices.
No published data suggest risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when this derivative is applied topically at cosmetic concentrations. It is not a retinoid or strong exfoliant. That said this information is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should review all skincare choices with a qualified healthcare provider for personal reassurance.
The molecule does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight. In fact its antioxidant action may give a small protective boost when used under sunscreen. Normal daily sun protection is still essential.
3-Lauryl/Tridecylglyceryl Ascorbate layers well with most common actives such as niacinamide, peptides and hyaluronic acid, which makes it easy to slot into existing routines without special timing rules.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical 3-Lauryl/Tridecylglyceryl Ascorbate differ between individuals. The points below outline possible but uncommon effects. When formulated correctly most users experience only benefits.
- Mild transient tingling or warmth – can occur on very sensitive or freshly exfoliated skin especially at higher use levels
- Redness or irritation – rare but possible if the formula contains additional fragrances or harsh actives that your skin cannot tolerate
- Allergic contact dermatitis – extremely uncommon immune response leading to itching rash or swelling
- Breakouts or congestion – may happen if the finished product contains heavy oils that trap debris in pores rather than from the derivative itself
- Product discoloration and off odor – signals oxidation which can reduce effectiveness and potentially irritate skin prone to sensitivities
If any persistent irritation swelling or other concerning reaction develops stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional for guidance.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
3-Lauryl/Tridecylglyceryl Ascorbate sits low on the comedogenic scale because the molecule is bulky and only lightly oily so it is unlikely to lodge in pores. The lauryl and tridecyl side chains provide slip without the heavy waxiness of longer fatty acids, while the glycerin backbone keeps the texture light. Most finished formulas containing this derivative aim for a silky, quick-absorbing feel that further reduces clogging risk.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, provided the overall product is also lightweight and non-occlusive.
Keep in mind that individual reactions can depend on the full ingredient list, concentration and how many layers of skincare you apply on top.
Summary
3-Lauryl/Tridecylglyceryl Ascorbate works as an antioxidant, humectant and skin-conditioning agent. The attached fatty alcohol-glycerin ethers protect the vitamin C core so it can neutralise free radicals, while the glycerin portion attracts water for surface hydration and the lipid tails smooth texture and improve product slip.
The derivative is still a niche option compared with classic vitamin C forms like ascorbic acid or ascorbyl glucoside, yet its shelf stability and skin comfort are earning it a quiet following in modern serums and moisturisers.
Current research and practical use indicate it is generally safe with a low rate of irritation or clogging, but as with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to perform a small patch test when trying a product that contains it.