1,4-Butanediol/Succinic Acid/Adipic Acid/Hdi Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 22, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is 1,4-Butanediol/Succinic Acid/Adipic Acid/Hdi Copolymer?

1,4-Butanediol/Succinic Acid/Adipic Acid/Hdi Copolymer is a synthetic polymer created by reacting four building blocks: 1,4-butanediol, succinic acid, adipic acid and hexamethylene diisocyanate. When these molecules link together they form long, flexible chains that behave a lot like a lightweight plastic film once they dry on the skin. The blend of diacids and diols gives the polymer toughness while the diisocyanate segment adds flexibility and adhesion.

The chemistry behind this material comes from industrial polyurethane technology developed in the mid-20th century. As cosmetic chemists searched for ingredients that could leave a smooth, durable finish without a heavy feel they adapted this polymer for personal care use. Today it is manufactured in closed reactors where the raw acids and diols are heated to remove water then reacted with the diisocyanate. The result is a pre-formed polymer that is purified, dried and milled into a fine powder or dissolved in a safe solvent ready for cosmetic labs.

You will usually spot this copolymer in color cosmetics such as long-wear foundations, mascaras and lip products because it forms a flexible film that resists smudging. It can also turn up in exfoliating face or body scrubs, primers, sunscreens and certain leave-on treatments that need a smooth finish and good ingredient adhesion.

1,4-Butanediol/Succinic Acid/Adipic Acid/Hdi Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This polymer multitasks in formulas thanks to the way its structure interacts with both the skin surface and other ingredients.

  • Abrasive: When supplied as a fine powder it acts as a gentle mechanical exfoliant, helping lift away dead skin cells and improving skin smoothness without sharp edges that could cause micro-tears.
  • Binding: It helps pressed powders, exfoliating beads or mixed pigments stick together so the product stays intact in the pan and applies evenly on the skin.
  • Film forming: Once the formula dries it leaves behind an invisible, flexible film that locks pigments in place, boosts water and transfer resistance and gives skin a soft, smooth feel.

Who Can Use 1,4-Butanediol/Succinic Acid/Adipic Acid/Hdi Copolymer

This copolymer is generally suitable for all skin types including oily, combination, normal and dry skin because it sits on the surface without deeply penetrating or disrupting the skin barrier. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well since the polymer is non reactive and fragrance free, although anyone with a history of contact allergies to polyurethanes should proceed cautiously.

Vegans and vegetarians can use products containing this ingredient because it is synthesized entirely from petrochemical or mineral sources with no animal derived raw materials involved in its production.

Current safety assessments have not flagged the polymer as a reproductive or developmental hazard, so it is not automatically restricted during pregnancy or breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice; pregnant or nursing individuals should review any skincare product with their healthcare provider for personal guidance.

The ingredient itself does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it is not considered photosensitizing. It is also odorless and colorless which helps minimize risk of fragrance or dye related irritation.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical 1,4-Butanediol/Succinic Acid/Adipic Acid/Hdi Copolymer can differ from person to person. The points below list potential but uncommon side effects; most users experience none of these when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished cosmetic product.

  • Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching in individuals with very sensitive skin
  • Contact dermatitis in rare cases of allergy to polyurethane type materials
  • Eye irritation if loose powder or dust from a product enters the eyes
  • Respiratory discomfort if large amounts of dry powder are inhaled during manufacturing or at home DIY use

If any discomfort or unusual reaction occurs discontinue use and seek advice from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 (very low likelihood of clogging pores)

This polymer is a large, inert molecule that stays on the skin’s surface and is not oily or waxy, so it does not readily mix with sebum or settle inside pores. Most formulas use it at modest levels alongside volatile carriers that evaporate, further reducing any pore-blocking risk.

Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.

Keep in mind that if the copolymer appears in a product packed with heavy oils or butters the combined formula could still feel occlusive and lead to congestion in some users, but the polymer itself is not the culprit.

Summary

1,4-Butanediol/Succinic Acid/Adipic Acid/Hdi Copolymer acts as a gentle abrasive, a binder that keeps powders and pigments pressed together and a film former that creates a flexible shield locking makeup or actives in place. It does this by leveraging its long polyurethane chains which provide mild grit when ground, strong cohesion between particles and a lightweight plastic-like layer once dry.

While not a household name it has carved out a steady niche in long-wear foundations, mascaras, primers and certain scrubs where durability and smooth texture matter. Most safety reviews rate it as low risk for irritation or sensitization and its comedogenic rating is very low. As with any new cosmetic it is smart to patch test a small area first to confirm personal tolerance.

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