What Is 3-Laurylglyceryl Ascorbate?
3-Laurylglyceryl Ascorbate is a modern, oil-soluble form of vitamin C created by linking ascorbic acid to a laurylglyceryl group. This tweak keeps the antioxidant power of vitamin C while making the molecule more stable and easier to blend into creams and lotions. The lauryl (coconut-derived) segment adds a touch of moisturising fatty chain, and the glyceryl part helps the ingredient disperse smoothly in both water and oil phases.
The ingredient first appeared in Japanese skincare labs in the early 2000s as chemists searched for vitamin C alternatives that would not oxidise or irritate easily. By attaching a medium-chain fatty alcohol to vitamin C, researchers found they could boost shelf life and skin compatibility. Today it is produced through an esterification process: purified L-ascorbic acid reacts with a glyceryl derivative, then a lauryl group is added, yielding a clear to pale-yellow liquid that resists degradation from light and air.
You will spot 3-Laurylglyceryl Ascorbate in brightening serums, anti-ageing creams, lightweight moisturisers, sheet masks and even some sunscreens designed to fend off free radical damage. Brands favor it when they want the benefits of vitamin C without the stinging or quick color change that pure ascorbic acid can bring.
3-Laurylglyceryl Ascorbate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas, this multitasker supports skin health on several fronts:
- Antioxidant: Neutralises free radicals created by UV light and pollution, helping to keep skin looking firm and even toned
- Humectant: Draws water into the upper layers of skin which can soften fine lines and give a fresh, plump appearance
- Skin Conditioning: Smooths and nurtures the skin surface making it feel silky and comfortable while supporting barrier function
Who Can Use 3-Laurylglyceryl Ascorbate
This gentle form of vitamin C suits most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily skin. Its humectant action adds water without leaving a greasy film, which makes it comfortable for dehydrated or mature skin, while the oil-soluble structure is light enough not to weigh down oilier complexions. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it better than pure ascorbic acid because the fatty chain buffers the acidity, but those with very reactive skin disorders like rosacea should still proceed cautiously as any active can potentially tingle.
The ingredient is synthesised from plant-derived raw materials (corn-sourced ascorbic acid, coconut or palm-derived lauryl chain and vegetable glycerin) and involves no animal by-products, so it aligns with vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. Ethical sourcing can vary by supplier though, so strict vegans may want to confirm brand certifications.
Current data shows no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women. That said this information is educational, not medical advice, and anyone expecting or nursing should run all skincare choices past a qualified healthcare professional.
Unlike some acids and essential oils, 3-Laurylglyceryl Ascorbate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight. In fact its antioxidant action can help defend against photo-oxidative stress, though daily sunscreen is still non-negotiable.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to 3-Laurylglyceryl Ascorbate vary from person to person. The effects listed below are possible but uncommon when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild stinging or warmth especially on freshly exfoliated or compromised skin
- Temporary redness that usually subsides within minutes to hours
- Dry patches or flaking if applied in very high concentrations without adequate moisturiser
- Allergic contact dermatitis in rare cases for individuals sensitive to vitamin C derivatives or coconut-based raw materials
- Breakouts or clogged pores if the finished product also contains heavier occlusives that do not suit acne-prone skin
- Increased irritation when layered with other potent actives like retinoids or alpha hydroxy acids
If any persistent irritation or unexpected reaction occurs stop use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5 (very low)
3-Laurylglyceryl Ascorbate carries a single lauryl fatty chain, yet it is used in small amounts and remains light in texture so it rarely traps oil or debris inside pores. Clinical and anecdotal reports show little clogging potential compared with heavier fatty esters.
Most people who are prone to acne or breakouts can use products containing this ingredient without extra concern, provided the rest of the formula is also low in pore-clogging components.
The finished product’s overall composition, application frequency and cleansing routine matter more than this ingredient alone when evaluating breakout risk.
Summary
3-Laurylglyceryl Ascorbate acts as an antioxidant, humectant and skin-conditioning agent. Its vitamin C core donates electrons to neutralise free radicals, the glyceryl backbone draws moisture into the upper skin layers and the lauryl tail smooths the surface while helping the molecule stay stable and oil-dispersible.
Although not as famous as pure ascorbic acid or popular derivatives like ascorbyl glucoside, it is gaining quiet traction among brands looking for a gentle, shelf-stable vitamin C that fits into lightweight emulsions and sunscreens.
Current data points to a solid safety profile with low irritation and comedogenic risk, yet every skin type is unique. When trying any new product containing 3-Laurylglyceryl Ascorbate, do a small patch test first to confirm personal tolerance.