Acetyl Methyl Hydroxyprolinatyl Glycyrrhetinate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Acetyl Methyl Hydroxyprolinatyl Glycyrrhetinate?

Acetyl Methyl Hydroxyprolinatyl Glycyrrhetinate is a lab crafted compound that links two well known skin friendly building blocks. One part comes from hydroxyproline, an amino acid found in collagen, while the other part is derived from glycyrrhetinic acid, the soothing component of licorice root. Chemists join these pieces through a carboxymethyl and acetyl process that improves stability and helps the molecule blend smoothly into modern cosmetic bases. The ingredient first appeared in research aimed at combining the comforting nature of licorice with the moisture binding talent of amino acids. After small scale trials showed softer, calmer skin, brands began adding it to premium creams in the early 2010s. Today you will spot it in leave-on moisturizers, anti aging serums, sheet masks, eye creams and after-sun gels where a light yet nurturing feel is desired.

Acetyl Methyl Hydroxyprolinatyl Glycyrrhetinate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is prized for its role as a skin conditioning agent. It helps cosmetic formulas boost water retention on the skin surface, leaving it feeling smoother and more supple. At the same time the licorice derived portion can calm minor redness, so products containing it often promote a refreshed, comforted complexion.

Who Can Use Acetyl Methyl Hydroxyprolinatyl Glycyrrhetinate

The ingredient’s light, soothing profile makes it a comfortable fit for most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily complexions. Because it focuses on moisture support and calming benefits without heavy oils or aggressive actives, even sensitive skin generally tolerates it well. People with extremely reactive or allergy-prone skin should still review the full formula of any product, as irritation usually arises from accompanying ingredients rather than this compound itself.

Acetyl Methyl Hydroxyprolinatyl Glycyrrhetinate is synthesized in a lab from plant-derived glycyrrhetinic acid and bio-fermented hydroxyproline so it is typically suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Brands that emphasize cruelty-free standards usually spotlight this point but check individual supplier statements if full plant sourcing is important to you.

Current data does not flag the molecule as problematic for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said, this information is not medical advice and those who are expecting or nursing should show any skincare routine to their physician just to be safe.

The ingredient does not heighten photosensitivity and can be used day or night without increasing the risk of sunburn. Standard daytime sun protection is still recommended for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Acetyl Methyl Hydroxyprolinatyl Glycyrrhetinate differ from person to person. The effects listed below are possible yet unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is formulated and applied correctly.

  • Mild redness or warmth
  • Temporary itching or tingling
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to licorice derivatives
  • Eye stinging if the product accidentally migrates into the eyes
  • Interaction with other active ingredients that target inflammation, occasionally leading to overstressed skin

If you notice any unexpected discomfort or prolonged irritation stop using the product and seek guidance from a qualified healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

Acetyl Methyl Hydroxyprolinatyl Glycyrrhetinate is water soluble and contains no heavy oils or waxes that could clog pores. Its molecular structure is designed for quick absorption and light hydration rather than occlusion, so it earns the lowest possible score on the comedogenic scale.

This makes it suitable for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts.

As with any ingredient, the overall formulation matters; rich creams with other pore blocking components can still trigger congestion even if this specific molecule does not.

Summary

Acetyl Methyl Hydroxyprolinatyl Glycyrrhetinate conditions skin by binding moisture through its hydroxyproline segment while the glycyrrhetinic part helps calm visible redness and discomfort. Together they support a softer, more balanced complexion without adding weight.

It remains a specialty ingredient that shows up mostly in mid to high end moisturizers, serums and after sun products rather than mass market lines, but its fan base is growing as brands look for gentle multitaskers.

Current research and user reports point to a high safety profile with minimal irritation potential. Even so, perform a patch test when trying any new product containing this ingredient to make sure it plays well with your unique skin.

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