What Is Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate/Hema Crosspolymer?
Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate/Hema Crosspolymer is a man-made ingredient created by linking together several small building blocks called monomers. The main pieces are beheneth-25 methacrylate, a waxy molecule made from behenic acid found in plant oils, and HEMA, a water-friendly acrylic unit often used in contact lenses. These parts are joined with acrylic or methacrylic acids and then “crosslinked” with a pentaerythritol allyl ether, forming a flexible three-dimensional network. The result is a white to off-white powder that swells when mixed with water or solvents, giving products a smooth, gel-like feel.
The polymer family behind this ingredient first appeared in the late 1980s as chemists searched for lighter, longer-lasting film formers for hair sprays. Its reliable hold and pleasant texture soon caught the eye of skin-care formulators, and by the mid-1990s it had spread to lotions, sunscreens and color cosmetics.
Production starts with purified monomers blended in stainless steel reactors. Under controlled heat and a gentle initiator, they link into long chains. Crosslinkers are added toward the end to lock the network together, then the mixture is neutralised, dried and milled into a fine powder.
You will most often see Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate/Hema Crosspolymer in hair gels and sprays, leave-in conditioners, facial moisturisers, sunscreens, liquid foundations, sheet masks, peel-off masks and lightweight serums where a clear, non-sticky film and stable texture are important.
Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate/Hema Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Thanks to its balanced structure this polymer offers several useful roles in beauty formulas.
- Emulsion stabilising: Keeps oil and water mixed so creams stay smooth without separating, extending shelf life and ensuring even delivery of active ingredients
- Film forming: Dries to a thin, flexible layer that locks moisture in skin or helps makeup and sunscreen cling better for longer wear and improved water resistance
- Hair fixing: Provides light to medium hold that resists humidity while leaving hair touchable, making it ideal for gels, mousses and styling creams
- Viscosity controlling: Swells in water to thicken formulas, allowing brands to create clear gels or creamy lotions without heavy waxes or silicones
Who Can Use Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate/Hema Crosspolymer
This polymer is lightweight, non greasy and generally friendly to all skin types. Oily and combination skin benefit from its matte breathable film while normal and dry skin appreciate the extra moisture retention it offers when paired with humectants. Extremely sensitive or eczema-prone skin can usually tolerate it but should watch for any tight or occlusive feel as the forming film might trap heat or sweat in very reactive complexions.
Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate/Hema Crosspolymer is made entirely from synthetic units and plant-derived behenic acid so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians with no hidden animal by-products.
The large size of the polymer means it stays on the surface of skin and is not expected to enter the bloodstream. Current safety assessments list it as pregnancy safe. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or breastfeeding should show the full ingredient list of any cosmetic product to a qualified health professional before use.
The ingredient is not known to cause photosensitivity. In fact its film-forming ability can help sunscreens stay put which indirectly boosts sun protection. It also plays well with most actives including retinoids, vitamin C and exfoliating acids.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Individual responses to topical Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate/Hema Crosspolymer vary. The following is a list of potential side effects that could occur even though most people will not experience them when the ingredient is used at approved levels in well formulated products.
- Mild transient redness or stinging in very sensitive skin
- Contact dermatitis for those already allergic to acrylic or methacrylate compounds
- Watery eyes or slight eye irritation if a spray or gel accidentally reaches the eye area
- Flaking or product build-up on hair when high-hold styling formulas are layered repeatedly
- Rare pore clogging in users who are extremely acne-prone and use heavy leave-on layers
If any irritation or other negative reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate/Hema Crosspolymer is a large water-swellable molecule that sits on top of skin rather than sinking into pores. It has no oily or waxy residues that typically feed acne bacteria which keeps its comedogenic potential very low. Rare clogging can happen only when very heavy leave-on layers are built up in already congested skin.
Overall it is considered suitable for those prone to acne or breakouts.
Because the ingredient is almost always blended with many others, any pore-clogging risk usually comes from the surrounding formula instead of the polymer itself.
Summary
Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate/Hema Crosspolymer stabilises emulsions so creams stay smooth, forms a flexible film that locks in moisture and boosts wear time, gives light to medium hair hold and thickens liquids into satisfying gels or lotions. It achieves all of this by swelling in water and linking into a clear web that spreads easily then dries to a breathable layer.
While not as famous as carbomer or PVP it shows up in a steady stream of modern lotions, sunscreens, hair gels and lightweight serums because it offers reliable performance without a sticky feel.
Current safety reviews rate it as low risk for irritation or absorption. Still, every skin is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains this polymer before regular use.