Adipic Acid/Diethylenetriamine Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Adipic Acid/Diethylenetriamine Copolymer?

Adipic Acid/Diethylenetriamine Copolymer is a synthetic polymer created by reacting adipic acid, a dicarboxylic acid commonly derived from petrochemical sources, with diethylenetriamine, an amine compound. The reaction links these molecules into long chains that form a polyamide structure. Chemists first explored this copolymer in the late twentieth century when the beauty industry was looking for lightweight flexible films that could replace heavy resins in hair sprays and styling products. Its popularity grew because it offered strong hold without the flaking or stiffness associated with older formulas.

Manufacturing begins with purified adipic acid and diethylenetriamine heated under controlled conditions. Catalysts help the two ingredients bond, and the resulting polymer is then cooled, neutralized and milled into a fine powder or converted into an aqueous solution. Because it is water dispersible, formulators can add it to products at room temperature which keeps processing energy low and helps protect heat-sensitive ingredients.

You will most often find Adipic Acid/Diethylenetriamine Copolymer in hairstyling sprays, mousses, gels and creams that promise long-lasting hold. Some skin care masks and peel-off treatments also use it to create a flexible film that locks active ingredients against the skin until removal.

Adipic Acid/Diethylenetriamine Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In beauty formulations this copolymer serves two main roles that enhance both performance and user experience

  • Film forming The polymer dries to form a thin invisible film that clings to hair or skin. On hair it smooths the cuticle surface and helps resist humidity so styles stay intact for hours. On skin the film can trap moisture and actives, contributing to a tighter peel-off effect in masks without feeling heavy
  • Hair fixing Its flexible bonds give strong yet touchable hold, allowing hair to move naturally while keeping strands in place. Unlike some traditional fixatives it leaves minimal residue, resists flaking and washes out easily with shampoo

Who Can Use Adipic Acid/Diethylenetriamine Copolymer

This copolymer is considered gentle enough for most skin types including normal, dry, oily and combination. People with very sensitive or compromised skin may wish to monitor how their skin feels because the thin film it forms could trap heat or sweat and cause temporary redness in rare cases.

The ingredient is fully synthetic and made without animal by products so it aligns with vegan and vegetarian lifestyles.

No research shows that topical use poses a risk to women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, but this is not medical advice. Anyone who is expecting or nursing should show the product to a qualified healthcare provider before using it to be safe.

Adipic Acid/Diethylenetriamine Copolymer does not make skin more prone to sunburn and does not interfere with sunscreen. People who color treat or chemically relax their hair can use products containing it without concern.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to any cosmetic ingredient differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects that have been reported, though most users experience none of them when the ingredient is used at standard levels in well formulated products.

  • Mild skin irritation such as itching or redness on very sensitive skin
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to amine based polymers
  • Eye stinging if overspray from hair products gets into the eyes
  • Temporary buildup on hair when products are layered without proper washing which can leave strands dull or sticky

If you notice any of these reactions stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5  Adipic Acid/Diethylenetriamine Copolymer scores low because it is a large water dispersible polymer that sits on the surface rather than penetrating pores. It contains no oily or waxy fractions that typically trap sebum or debris. For most acne-prone users this means it is unlikely to trigger new breakouts, though those extremely sensitive to any film on the skin may still prefer to limit leave-on face products.

The molecule also rinses away easily with regular cleansing, reducing the chance of buildup that could otherwise contribute to congestion.

Summary

Adipic Acid/Diethylenetriamine Copolymer works as a film former and hair fixative. Its long polyamide chains create a lightweight flexible network that envelopes hair shafts for lasting hold and shields skin or hair surfaces against humidity without flaking.

While it is a staple in many modern hair sprays, mousses and gels, you will see it less often in skin care where only select peel-off masks rely on its film-forming talent.

Overall safety is considered high with low irritation and a very low comedogenic score, yet every skin type is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product that lists this polymer before full application.

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