Amarantheth-20: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Amarantheth-20?

Amarantheth-20 is a plant-derived ingredient made by attaching chains of polyethylene glycol to the fatty alcohols naturally present in amaranth seed oil. The ethoxylation process transforms the oil’s water-repelling parts into molecules that comfortably blend with both water and oil. Interest in amaranth began in the 1970s when formulators looked for gentle surfactants based on renewable crops. By the 1990s the PEG version found its way into skin and hair products that needed mild cleansing power without stripping the skin. Today Amarantheth-20 is manufactured by first pressing Amaranthus caudatus seeds for their oil, splitting the oil into fatty alcohols, then reacting those alcohols with ethylene oxide until about twenty units are attached. You will spot it in facial cleansers, micellar waters, makeup removers, lightweight lotions, hydrating masks, scalp scrubs, creamy shampoos and leave-on conditioners.

Amarantheth-20’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulas Amarantheth-20 pulls double duty, making the end product work better and feel nicer on the skin or hair.

  • Cleansing: Its surfactant nature lifts away dirt, sweat and leftover makeup while staying gentle enough for daily use which helps keep the skin’s moisture barrier intact
  • Emulsifying: It binds water and oil into a stable mixture so creams stay smooth, lotions remain fluid and cleansers rinse off cleanly without separation during shelf life

Who Can Use Amarantheth-20

Thanks to its mild cleansing profile Amarantheth-20 generally suits all skin types including oily, dry, combination and even sensitive skin because it helps remove grime without stripping protective lipids. People with a severely compromised skin barrier or active eczema might still prefer a simpler routine since any surfactant can feel drying when the barrier is already inflamed.

The ingredient is sourced from amaranth seed oil and contains no animal-derived matter which makes it compatible with vegan and vegetarian lifestyles.

No studies report reproductive or developmental concerns from topical use so pregnant or breastfeeding users can usually use products containing Amarantheth-20. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should have their doctor review their personal skincare routine.

Amarantheth-20 does not increase photosensitivity so there is no special need for extra sun precautions beyond a normal daily SPF habit. It is also considered color-safe for dyed hair because it cleanses gently without harsh sulfates.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to Amarantheth-20 vary by individual. The effects listed below are only potential outcomes and are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is properly formulated in a product.

  • Mild skin irritation – a tight or itchy sensation can occur in rare cases especially on very dry or compromised skin
  • Contact allergy – redness or small rash-like bumps may appear in those sensitized to polyethylene glycol compounds
  • Eye stinging – if a cleanser containing Amarantheth-20 accidentally enters the eyes temporary discomfort and watering can result
  • Scalp buildup – infrequent but possible when heavily concentrated conditioners are not rinsed thoroughly leading to dull roots or itchiness

If you experience any of the above discontinue use and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

Amarantheth-20 is highly water-soluble thanks to its PEG chains so it rinses away rather than lingering in pores. While the starting fatty alcohols could be pore-clogging on their own, the ethoxylation step changes their behavior enough that only a very low risk of comedones remains, especially in rinse-off products. This makes it generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin. The small chance of buildup is most relevant in leave-on formulas that also contain heavier oils or waxes.

Summary

Amarantheth-20 works as a mild cleanser and an effective emulsifier. Its surfactant head grabs water while its fatty tail grabs oil, allowing it to lift dirt from skin or hair and keep water-oil mixtures stable so lotions, creams and shampoos stay uniform. Although not a headline ingredient you will still find it quietly doing its job in mainstream micellar waters, gentle face washes and creamy conditioners where formulators want plant-derived performance without harshness.

Current safety reviews show low irritation potential and no long-term health concerns when used as directed, yet every skin type is different so patch testing a new product that contains Amarantheth-20 is a smart precaution.

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