Ammonium Ethylene/Ma Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Ammonium Ethylene/Ma Copolymer?

Ammonium Ethylene/Ma Copolymer is a synthetic polymer created by joining ethylene with maleic anhydride, then converting the result into its ammonium salt form. The process starts with a controlled reaction of ethylene gas and maleic anhydride to make a long-chain copolymer. This polymer is then treated with ammonia to give the finished ingredient its water-friendly character. Because the raw materials come from the petrochemical industry, supply is steady and quality can be tightly managed.

The material first showed up in industrial cleaning and coating products during the 1970s thanks to its strong film-forming and stabilising qualities. Cosmetic chemists soon noticed that the same traits could keep creams smooth and clear, so by the late 1980s it began appearing in personal care formulas. Today you will find Ammonium Ethylene/Ma Copolymer in facial cleansers, lightweight moisturisers, sunscreens, sheet masks, anti-aging serums, styling gels and two-phase makeup removers. It is valued for keeping oil and water mixed, adding a gentle cleansing boost and improving overall texture without a heavy feel.

Ammonium Ethylene/Ma Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multitasking polymer supports both the feel and performance of many everyday beauty products.

  • Emulsion stabilising: Helps oil and water stay blended so creams resist separating during shelf life and apply evenly on the skin
  • Cleansing: Lifts away dirt and leftover makeup by surrounding oily particles and allowing them to rinse off with water, giving cleansers extra efficiency without harshness
  • Emulsifying: Acts as a bridge between water and oil phases during manufacturing, allowing formulators to create thinner lotions and fluid sunscreens that remain smooth and pourable

Who Can Use Ammonium Ethylene/Ma Copolymer

This polymer is considered gentle enough for most skin types. Its lightweight, non-occlusive character suits oily and combination skin while its ability to bind water helps keep normal and mildly dry skin comfortable. Very dry or compromised skin may need richer emollients in addition to it but there is nothing in the ingredient itself that makes it unsuitable.

Because the material is fully synthetic and sourced from petrochemical feedstocks it contains no animal-derived components, making it acceptable for both vegans and vegetarians.

The large molecular size means it stays on the skin surface with minimal penetration, so it is generally viewed as low risk for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before adding new products to a routine.

Ammonium Ethylene/Ma Copolymer does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. As always daily sunscreen is still recommended for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Ammonium Ethylene/Ma Copolymer differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects but most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild transient stinging in individuals with very sensitive or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Redness or itching if an allergy to the polymer or one of the formula’s other components is present
  • Dry-feeling skin when used in high concentrations without complementary moisturisers, particularly on already dehydrated areas
  • Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes during cleansing or makeup removal
  • Build-up on hair shafts leading to dullness when leave-on hair products containing high levels are not washed out regularly

Discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional if any of these effects occur or persist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

Ammonium Ethylene/Ma Copolymer is a large, water-loving molecule that stays on the skin surface and rinses away easily, so it has very little tendency to block pores. A score of 1 rather than 0 is given because it can create a light film that, in very heavy or oil-rich formulas, might trap existing sebum. Overall it is considered suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.

If used at high levels in products packed with waxes or butters the finished formula, not the polymer itself, could feel heavier and potentially contribute to congestion.

Summary

Ammonium Ethylene/Ma Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that keeps oil and water mixed, boosts cleansing power and stabilises emulsions by wrapping around droplets and preventing them from separating. Its amphiphilic structure means one part loves water while another part interacts with oils, allowing it to bridge the two phases and improve texture without a greasy feel.

Although it is not a headline ingredient like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide, it is quietly popular with formulators who want lightweight lotions, clear gels and two-phase cleansers that stay homogenous on the shelf. Consumers may not notice it on the label, but they benefit from smoother application and longer product stability.

Safety data show a low risk of irritation, negligible penetration and minimal comedogenicity, making it appropriate for most skin types including sensitive and acne-prone. As with any new skincare ingredient it is smart to patch test a product containing Ammonium Ethylene/Ma Copolymer before full use to be on the safe side.

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