What Is Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate?
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, also known as ammonium dodecyl sulphate, is the ammonium salt of lauryl sulfate. Lauryl sulfate itself is made from lauryl alcohol, which is usually sourced from coconut or palm kernel oil. To create the ingredient, manufacturers first react lauryl alcohol with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid to produce lauryl sulfuric acid, then neutralize that acid with ammonium hydroxide. The result is a water-soluble powder or paste that dissolves quickly and produces a rich lather.
The compound gained popularity in the 1940s when companies looked for affordable surfactants to replace traditional soap in liquid detergents. Its strong foaming ability and ease of production made it a staple in personal care products. Today you will find it in shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, bubble baths, exfoliating scrubs, toothpaste, shaving creams and even some household cleaners, though our focus here is on cosmetics for skin and hair.
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas for skin and hair care this ingredient serves more than one job
- Cleansing: Its surfactant action lifts away dirt, oil and product buildup so they can be rinsed off easily, leaving skin and hair feeling fresh
- Foaming: It creates a dense foam that spreads the product evenly and improves the sensory experience, helping users feel the product is working while also allowing for quick rinse-off
Who Can Use Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
Products with Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate are generally suitable for normal, oily and combination skin and for most hair types that need effective cleansing. Dry or sensitive skin may find it too stripping because the strong surfactant action can remove natural oils and weaken the skin barrier, which might lead to tightness or irritation. If you already struggle with eczema, rosacea or a compromised scalp you might prefer a milder cleanser.
The ingredient itself is synthetic after the initial plant-derived alcohol step, so it is considered vegan and vegetarian friendly. No animal byproducts are used during manufacture and it is not tested on animals by most reputable cosmetic companies that follow cruelty-free standards.
Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals can use products that contain Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate in rinse-off formats like shampoo or body wash because very little remains on the skin after rinsing. This is not medical advice; anyone expecting or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before adding new skincare items.
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate does not cause photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also has no known interactions with common over-the-counter actives such as retinoids or vitamin C when used in wash-off products. Always follow the directions on the label for best results.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate differ from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects that could occur, though most people will not experience them when the ingredient is used at safe levels in properly formulated products.
- Skin dryness
- Tight or squeaky feeling after rinsing
- Redness or stinging on sensitive skin
- Flaking or itchiness on the scalp
- Eye irritation if the foam gets into the eyes
If you notice any of these effects stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional if irritation persists.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate is a small, water-soluble surfactant that quickly rinses off the skin so it has little chance to linger inside pores and block them. Because it does not leave behind an oily or waxy film the risk of clogging pores is very low, which is why it receives a 1 rather than a 0. The mild residue that can remain might occasionally trap dead skin cells on extremely reactive complexions, but this is uncommon.
Acne-prone users typically tolerate the ingredient well in rinse-off products, though its potential to cause surface dryness may indirectly trigger breakouts in some individuals.
Its comedogenic profile is unchanged whether the source alcohol is coconut or palm derived and it is not affected by water hardness or pH within the normal cosmetic range.
Summary
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate is valued for two key jobs: cleansing and foaming. As an anionic surfactant it lowers surface tension, loosens oil, dirt and product buildup then lifts them away when you rinse. At the same time it whips air into the formula to create a rich, cushiony lather that spreads easily and rinses clean.
The ingredient has been popular since the mid-20th century thanks to its strong performance and low cost, although a growing number of brands now offer sulfate-free options for consumers who prefer milder alternatives.
Regulatory bodies deem it safe in rinse-off products at typical use levels and most people can use it without issues. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so it is wise to patch test any new cleanser or shampoo containing Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate to confirm personal tolerance before full-time use.