Apricot Kernel Oil Peg-40 Esters: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Apricot Kernel Oil Peg-40 Esters?

Apricot Kernel Oil Peg-40 Esters is a liquid ingredient created by reacting natural apricot kernel oil with about 40 units of ethylene oxide. The process, called ethoxylation, links silky plant oils with water-loving PEG groups so the finished material can mix smoothly into both oil and water phases. Apricot kernel oil itself is pressed from the seeds inside apricot pits and has long been prized for its light feel and skin-friendly fatty acids. Chemists began modifying it with PEG in the mid-1900s when the cosmetics industry was looking for gentle cleansers and stable emulsifiers that kept formulas from separating.

The ingredient is produced in a controlled setting where raw apricot kernel oil is blended with ethylene oxide under heat and pressure. The result is a clear to pale yellow liquid that disperses easily in water yet still carries the cushioning feel of the original oil.

Thanks to this dual nature it shows up in a wide range of products such as facial cleansers, micellar waters, makeup removers, hydrating serums, light moisturizers, sheet masks, leave-on hair conditioners and even some color cosmetics where it helps pigments glide.

Apricot Kernel Oil Peg-40 Esters’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multifunctional ingredient supports a formula in several ways

  • Skin conditioning – leaves a soft, supple after-feel and helps smooth the skin surface so it looks healthier and feels comfortable
  • Emollient – forms a thin, breathable layer that limits moisture loss and adds a light, non-greasy slip, useful in lotions and serums aimed at normal to dry skin
  • Cleansing – lifts away oil-based dirt and makeup while staying gentle, making it ideal in micellar waters and facial washes for sensitive skin
  • Emulsifying – keeps water and oil blended so a product stays stable on the shelf and feels uniform with every use

Who Can Use Apricot Kernel Oil Peg-40 Esters

This ingredient suits nearly every skin type thanks to its lightweight feel and mild nature. Normal, dry and combination skin tend to appreciate the extra softness while oily or sensitive skin usually tolerates it because it rinses clean without leaving a heavy residue. Extremely acne-prone users who react to many emulsifiers might prefer to patch test first, as any oil-derived material can sometimes sit in pores.

Apricot Kernel Oil Peg-40 Esters is made from a plant oil and synthetic ethylene oxide, so it contains no animal components and is appropriate for vegans and vegetarians. As always check the finished formula for other ingredients if a fully vegan routine is important to you.

Current cosmetic safety assessments show no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used topically in normal amounts. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review new skincare products with a qualified health professional for personal reassurance.

The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no known issues with UV stability. It is also odorless so it will not clash with fragrance-free routines.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical Apricot Kernel Oil Peg-40 Esters vary from person to person. The points below outline potential reactions but most users will not encounter them when the ingredient is formulated correctly.

  • Mild skin irritation – very sensitive skin may experience temporary redness or stinging
  • Contact allergy – rare cases of allergy can cause itching hives or swelling
  • Breakouts – individuals who clog easily could notice small pimples if the product is heavy or not rinsed off fully
  • Eye discomfort – if a cleanser containing the ingredient gets into the eyes it can cause watering or a slight burn until rinsed out
  • Product spoilage issues – as with any surfactant rich material poor preservation can lead to microbial growth which may then irritate skin

If you experience any of these effects stop use immediately and seek advice from a pharmacist or healthcare provider.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5 (low likelihood of clogging pores)

The PEG-40 portion makes the ester partly water soluble so it rinses away more readily than straight apricot kernel oil. This hydrophilic shift limits its ability to sit inside follicles which is why it rates a 1 instead of the 2 often given to the unmodified oil.

Most acne-prone users can use products containing this ingredient without seeing extra congestion.

Formula texture and the presence of heavier oils will still influence pore-clogging potential so very rich creams could feel occlusive despite the ester’s low score.

Summary

Apricot Kernel Oil Peg-40 Esters conditions skin, adds a silky emollient feel, lifts oils for gentle cleansing and keeps water and oil blended so products stay smooth. It manages all these jobs by merging the cushioning fatty acids of apricot kernel oil with water-loving PEG chains that boost solubility.

It is more of a behind-the-scenes staple than a buzzword but its reliability keeps it in many micellar waters, lightweight lotions and facial cleansers.

Current data points to a high safety margin with only occasional reports of irritation or allergy. As with any new product, do a quick patch test to make sure your skin agrees.

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