Aquilaria Agallocha Stem Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Aquilaria Agallocha Stem Extract?

Aquilaria Agallocha Stem Extract comes from the stems of the eagle wood tree, Aquilaria agallocha, which belongs to the Thymelaeaceae family. The tree is better known for producing agarwood, a fragrant heartwood prized in perfumery, but its stems also contain a mix of moisturizing sugars, protective polyphenols and soothing essential oils. Traditional use of eagle wood in incense and skin poultices laid the groundwork for its inclusion in modern cosmetics, where gentle plant extracts are valued for skin comfort.

To create the extract, harvested stems are dried, ground and soaked in a safe solvent such as glycerin or a water-alcohol blend. The liquid draws out water-soluble compounds and lightweight oils, after which the mixture is filtered and concentrated. The resulting fluid or powder is standardized for consistency before it reaches formulators.

You are most likely to see Aquilaria Agallocha Stem Extract listed on labels of hydrating masks, soothing toners, daily moisturizers, after-sun gels and premium anti-aging serums where a calm, conditioned feel is desired.

Aquilaria Agallocha Stem Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

The main value of this ingredient is its skin conditioning ability, meaning it helps keep the surface of the skin soft, smooth and healthy looking. The natural sugars attract water, the polyphenols offer light antioxidant support and the mild oils leave a comfortable, non-greasy finish. Together these actions can boost moisture levels, reduce the look of roughness and enhance overall skin feel in a wide range of topical formulas.

Who Can Use Aquilaria Agallocha Stem Extract

This botanical ingredient is considered gentle enough for most skin types. Dry and mature skin may appreciate the extra moisture binding sugars while normal and combination skin will like the light, non greasy feel. Oily and breakout-prone skin usually tolerates it well because the extract is not heavy or occlusive, though those extremely sensitive to plant essences should proceed with a bit more caution.

Because it is sourced entirely from a tree and no animal derivatives enter the extraction process, Aquilaria Agallocha Stem Extract is suitable for vegetarians and vegans. Ethical formulators also tend to pair it with cruelty-free production methods, a bonus for those following a plant based lifestyle.

No specific warnings exist for use during pregnancy or breastfeeding, yet hormonal shifts can make skin more reactive. This is not medical advice; anyone who is pregnant or nursing should discuss new skincare products with a qualified health professional to be safe.

The extract does not contain known photo-sensitising compounds so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Standard daytime sun protection practices should still be followed in any routine.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Aquilaria Agallocha Stem Extract differ from person to person. The issues below are possible but uncommon when the ingredient is used at typical cosmetic levels in a well formulated product.

  • Mild redness or stinging in highly sensitive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to tree resins or fragrant wood oils
  • Rare clogged pores if combined with very occlusive ingredients in a formula, mainly in those prone to comedones
  • Cross-reaction with other botanical allergens leading to itching or rash

If any irritation or other adverse effect develops, discontinue use and seek advice from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

Aquilaria Agallocha Stem Extract is lightweight and mostly water soluble, leaving little residue that could block pores. It contains minimal heavy oils and waxes so it rarely builds up on the skin surface. A score of 1 means it is very unlikely to trigger clogged pores, though not entirely impossible for the most reactive or heavily layered routines. Overall it is considered a safe option for people who are prone to acne or breakouts. Only if paired with thick occlusive bases could its pore-clogging risk slightly rise.

Summary

Aquilaria Agallocha Stem Extract works as a skin conditioner by drawing in moisture with natural sugars, calming irritation with gentle essential oils and offering a touch of antioxidant support from polyphenols. These combined actions help skin feel softer, smoother and more comfortable.

While agarwood is famous in perfumery, its stem extract is still a niche player in skincare, showing up mainly in higher-end soothing or hydrating formulas rather than mass market lines.

Current data and real-world use show the extract to be low risk with only rare sensitivity reports. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to patch test first to ensure personal compatibility.

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