Aspergillus/Aspidosperma Quebracho Ferment: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Aspergillus/Aspidosperma Quebracho Ferment?

Aspergillus/Aspidosperma Quebracho Ferment is created when the fungus Aspergillus is allowed to digest and break down the bark of the Aspidosperma quebracho tree. This controlled fermentation process turns the tree’s naturally occurring compounds into smaller skin-friendly molecules that are easier for the skin to recognise and use. Fermentation also helps remove rough, heavy plant matter that could feel gritty or sticky on the skin.

The quebracho tree is native to South America, where its bark has long been valued for its tannin content. Early cosmetic chemists noticed that once the bark was fermented its once-astringent feel became surprisingly gentle and conditioning. Over time laboratories refined the technique, standardised the fermentation and began adding the finished ingredient to personal care formulas.

Today you can spot Aspergillus/Aspidosperma Quebracho Ferment in products such as lightweight moisturisers, calming face masks, anti-aging serums, after-sun gels and leave-on treatments designed to smooth and soften the skin.

Aspergillus/Aspidosperma Quebracho Ferment’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This fermented plant extract offers one main benefit in skincare.

Skin conditioning: It helps the skin feel softer, more supple and comfortably hydrated. By supplying a mix of gentle plant-derived compounds it supports the skin’s natural surface layer so that products glide on smoothly and leave a velvety finish.

Who Can Use Aspergillus/Aspidosperma Quebracho Ferment

This ferment is generally well tolerated by all skin types including dry oily combination and sensitive skin because its compounds are gentle and non stripping. Those with very reactive or compromised skin may still prefer to start with lower concentrations simply because any new ingredient can pose a small risk of irritation.

It is fully plant and microbe derived so vegans and vegetarians can use it with confidence. No animal by products or animal testing are required for its manufacture.

Current safety data show no specific issues for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. The ingredient is not known to penetrate deeply or reach systemic circulation. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should review all skincare products with a qualified healthcare professional.

The ferment does not increase photosensitivity. Daily sunscreen remains important for overall skin health but there is no added need to avoid sunlight solely because you are using this ingredient.

It is compatible with most other actives and preservatives and stays stable across a broad pH range so it can be layered easily within almost any routine.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Aspergillus/Aspidosperma Quebracho Ferment differ from person to person. The points below outline potential issues only and most users will not experience them when the ingredient is included at normal cosmetic levels.

  • Redness or mild stinging on very sensitive skin
  • Temporary itching or tightness if applied to broken or freshly exfoliated skin
  • Allergic response such as rash or swelling in individuals sensitive to fungal or botanical extracts
  • Acne flare in rare cases where someone is extremely prone to fermentation related ingredients

If any of these effects occur discontinue use immediately and seek advice from a dermatologist or healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5 (very low)

This ferment is made up of lightweight, water-soluble molecules produced during the breakdown of quebracho bark. It does not contain heavy oils or waxes that tend to clog pores and its tannin-derived compounds have a mild astringent feel that can even help keep the skin surface clear. For these reasons it sits at the lower end of the comedogenic scale.

Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, though individual responses can vary.

Because the ingredient is usually present at modest levels within formulas, the finished product’s overall pore-clogging potential will depend more on the other ingredients in the blend.

Summary

Aspergillus/Aspidosperma Quebracho Ferment is mainly used to condition the skin, leaving it softer, smoother and comfortably hydrated. Fermentation turns the bark’s larger plant compounds into smaller skin-friendly molecules that can sit neatly on the surface, reinforce the skin barrier and give products a pleasant, velvety glide.

While not yet a household name, the ingredient is gaining quiet popularity in niche moisturisers, soothing gels and gentle serums thanks to its plant-based origin and mild nature.

Current research and industry usage show it to be low risk for irritation or pore blockage, making it safe for most skin types when used as directed. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to perform a patch test before full-face application just to be sure your skin agrees with it.

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