Aspergillus/Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Ferment Filtrate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Aspergillus/Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Ferment Filtrate?

Aspergillus/Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Ferment Filtrate is a liquid obtained after fermenting sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) seeds with the friendly fungus Aspergillus oryzae. Sea buckthorn seeds are naturally rich in vitamins, fatty acids and antioxidant phytochemicals. When they are fermented the process breaks large molecules into smaller ones that are easier for skin to absorb while also creating new beneficial compounds such as peptides and enzymes.

The idea of using fermented plant extracts took off in Asian beauty labs in the early 2000s as formulators searched for gentler alternatives to harsh synthetic actives. Aspergillus oryzae, long used to ferment foods like miso and sake, turned out to be a reliable partner thanks to its safety record and its ability to unlock nutrients from plant material. After successful trials with rice and soy scientists applied the same method to nutrient dense sea buckthorn seeds and the filtrate soon found its way into premium skin care lines.

Production starts with finely ground sea buckthorn seeds mixed with water and Aspergillus oryzae. The mixture is kept at a controlled temperature for several days while the microorganism digests seed components. Once fermentation is complete the liquid portion is filtered off to remove solids and microorganisms, leaving a clear to pale yellow fluid ready for cosmetic use.

You will see Aspergillus/Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Ferment Filtrate in face masks, hydrating toners, anti aging serums, soothing moisturizers and after sun treatments where it serves as a multifunctional active that supports skin health and texture.

Aspergillus/Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Ferment Filtrate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This fermented extract brings several helpful actions to a skin care formula

  • Antioxidant – helps neutralize free radicals produced by UV light and pollution which in turn supports a brighter smoother complexion and may slow the look of premature aging
  • Humectant – attracts and binds water to the outer skin layers boosting hydration and giving skin a plump supple feel
  • Skin conditioning – softens and smooths the skin surface improving overall texture and comfort while enhancing the feel of the final product

Who Can Use Aspergillus/Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Ferment Filtrate

This fermented sea buckthorn seed filtrate suits almost every skin type. Dry or mature skin benefits from its water-binding humectant action while oily and combination skin appreciate its light non-greasy feel. Sensitive skin usually tolerates the ingredient well because fermentation reduces potentially irritating compounds, though anyone with a known allergy to sea buckthorn or fermented products should be cautious.

The ingredient is made only from plant seeds, water and the food-grade fungus Aspergillus oryzae, so it contains no animal-derived matter and is considered suitable for both vegetarians and vegans.

No data indicate specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the filtrate is used topically at cosmetic concentrations. Still this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should ask a healthcare professional before adding new products.

Aspergillus/Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Ferment Filtrate does not increase photosensitivity, so it can be used day or night without making skin more prone to sunburn. It plays nicely with most common skincare actives such as niacinamide, vitamin C and ceramides.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to any topical ingredient can vary from person to person. The points below describe potential side effects associated with Aspergillus/Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Ferment Filtrate, yet they are uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used properly.

  • Allergic contact dermatitis – a small number of users may experience redness, itching or small bumps if they are allergic to sea buckthorn compounds or fermentation by-products
  • Stinging or mild warmth – rarely felt on very compromised or freshly exfoliated skin because the filtrate is slightly acidic
  • Fungal acne flare-up concern – individuals extremely prone to malassezia-related breakouts sometimes worry about fermented ingredients, though current evidence does not show this filtrate feeds the yeast
  • Interaction with highly sensitising actives – pairing with strong acids or retinoids on the same application may temporarily heighten irritation on reactive skin

If you notice persistent discomfort, redness or any other adverse change while using a product containing this filtrate stop application and consult a qualified healthcare provider.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

This filtrate is a water based ingredient with no heavy oils or waxes so it does not sit inside pores or create a film that traps sebum. Its molecules are mostly small peptides, sugars and antioxidants generated during fermentation, all of which rinse away easily and are unlikely to clog follicles. For that reason it earns the lowest possible comedogenic score.

Suitable for acne prone or breakout prone skin.

Keep in mind the finished product formula matters more than a single raw material. If the filtrate is blended into a thick cream full of rich butters the overall product could still be pore clogging.

Summary

Aspergillus/Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Ferment Filtrate acts as an antioxidant that mops up free radicals, a humectant that pulls water into the upper skin layers and a skin conditioner that leaves the surface soft and smooth. Fermentation breaks down the nutrient packed sea buckthorn seeds into smaller parts so skin can use them more easily while also creating new beneficial peptides and enzymes.

The ingredient is still a niche choice in Western skin care but enjoys rising popularity thanks to the ongoing K-beauty trend for fermented actives. Brands looking for gentle multi-taskers often add it to hydrating toners, masks and serums.

Current safety data and long food use history of both sea buckthorn and Aspergillus oryzae suggest a very low risk profile. Most users tolerate the filtrate well yet every skin is different so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains it.

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