Aspergillus/Hydrolyzed Prunus Mume Seed Ferment Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Aspergillus/Hydrolyzed Prunus Mume Seed Ferment Extract?

Aspergillus/Hydrolyzed Prunus Mume Seed Ferment Extract starts with Prunus mume, a type of Asian plum admired for its antioxidant rich fruit and seeds. The seeds are first broken down into smaller fragments through a gentle hydrolysis step. This creates a nutrient dense liquid that becomes food for Aspergillus, a well studied fermenting microorganism often used in food and beauty manufacturing. During fermentation Aspergillus digests the seed fragments, releasing skin friendly amino acids, sugars, organic acids and minerals. The result is a silky, water soluble extract that blends easily into cosmetic formulas.

Although Prunus mume has long held a spot in traditional East Asian self care, its fermented seed extract is a newer arrival to modern skincare. Korean and Japanese formulators first explored the ingredient to add a natural, plant derived boost to hydration and skin smoothness. Thanks to growing interest in fermented beauty, the extract now appears in a wide range of products. It is made at scale in controlled tanks where temperature, pH and oxygen levels support steady Aspergillus activity. After fermentation the mix is filtered, purified and tested for safety before it ships to cosmetic labs.

You will most often see Aspergillus/Hydrolyzed Prunus Mume Seed Ferment Extract in lightweight serums, hydrating essences, sheet masks, soothing moisturizers and age defense creams. Brands like it because it is compatible with both water based and emulsified formulas and pairs well with humectants, oils and mild exfoliants.

Aspergillus/Hydrolyzed Prunus Mume Seed Ferment Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In skincare this fermented plum seed extract serves two main roles that work together to support soft healthy looking skin

  • Skin Conditioning: The mix of amino acids and natural sugars attracts and holds water on the skin surface leaving it feeling supple, refreshed and visibly smoother. Regular use can reduce the look of dullness while helping the skin barrier stay resilient against dryness and minor irritation.
  • Emollient: Fine lipids released during fermentation fill in microscopic gaps between skin cells creating a soft touch finish. This cushioning effect makes the skin feel velvety and can improve the spreadability of the overall formula so other active ingredients glide on evenly.

Who Can Use Aspergillus/Hydrolyzed Prunus Mume Seed Ferment Extract

The fermented plum seed extract is generally compatible with all major skin types. Dry and dehydrated skin may appreciate its water binding sugars while the light texture suits normal and oily complexions without feeling heavy. Combination skin can benefit from its balanced conditioning effect. Those with very sensitive or reactive skin should proceed with a bit more caution only because any fermented ingredient carries a small chance of triggering irritation if the skin barrier is already compromised.

The raw materials are plant based and the fermentation relies on the microorganism Aspergillus, not animal derivatives, so the ingredient is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

Current safety data shows no known issues for topical use during pregnancy or breastfeeding when the ingredient is formulated and preserved correctly. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should confirm product choices with a healthcare professional to be extra safe.

Aspergillus/Hydrolyzed Prunus Mume Seed Ferment Extract is not known to cause photosensitivity. Standard daily sun protection is still wise since UV rays can compromise overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Aspergillus/Hydrolyzed Prunus Mume Seed Ferment Extract vary from person to person. The points below outline potential but unlikely side effects when the ingredient is used in properly formulated products.

  • Mild redness or stinging in very sensitive skin especially if the barrier is already weakened
  • Allergic contact dermatitis for individuals allergic to components of Prunus species or to fermentation by products
  • Fungal or bacterial overgrowth if the finished product is contaminated or preserved inadequately
  • Temporary breakout flare in acne prone skin if the formula is overly rich or occlusive in addition to the extract

If any negative reaction occurs stop using the product and seek guidance from a medical professional

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5. Aspergillus/Hydrolyzed Prunus Mume Seed Ferment Extract is largely water based with only trace levels of lipids so it has little tendency to clog pores. The small amount of naturally released oils could, in theory, contribute to congestion but the concentration used in most formulas is too low to pose a real risk. It should be fine for people prone to acne or breakouts. Keep in mind that the overall product texture, accompanying oils and waxes and personal skin response can raise or lower the real-world likelihood of clogged pores.

Summary

This fermented plum seed extract conditions skin by drawing in moisture with its mix of amino acids and sugars then smooths the surface thanks to lightweight emollient lipids. Rising interest in fermented ingredients, especially in Korean and Japanese beauty circles, has made it a steadily more common sight in hydrating serums, essences and creams, though it is still far from mainstream staples like hyaluronic acid. Current data and long-standing food use of Prunus mume suggest a high margin of safety when the extract is produced and preserved correctly. Even so it is smart to patch test any new product to be sure your skin agrees with it.

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