Aspergillus/Poria Cocos Sclerotium Ferment Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Aspergillus/Poria Cocos Sclerotium Ferment Extract?

Aspergillus/Poria Cocos Sclerotium Ferment Extract is a skin-care ingredient that comes from the solid core, called the sclerotium, of the mushroom Poria cocos. The sclerotium is fermented with a friendly mold known as Aspergillus. During fermentation the mold breaks down the mushroom’s natural sugars, proteins and minerals into smaller parts that skin can more easily absorb. Poria cocos has been used in traditional Asian beauty rituals for centuries to calm and soften the skin. Modern labs picked up on this history, tested the mushroom’s soothing traits and found that fermenting it with Aspergillus makes it even smoother and more stable for creams and lotions.

To make the extract, dried Poria cocos sclerotium is cleaned and ground, mixed with water and then combined with Aspergillus spores in a controlled tank. The mix ferments for several days while temperature and pH are carefully watched. After fermentation the liquid is filtered to remove solids, then purified and concentrated. The final product is a clear to pale yellow fluid that can be added straight into cosmetic formulas.

You will most often see Aspergillus/Poria Cocos Sclerotium Ferment Extract in hydrating face creams, soothing sheet masks, overnight sleeping packs, anti-aging serums and lightweight daily moisturizers. Formulators like it because it blends well with water-based systems and gives a soft, cushiony feel without heavy oils.

Aspergillus/Poria Cocos Sclerotium Ferment Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient brings one main benefit to a formula.

As an emollient it fills in tiny gaps between skin cells, leaving the surface smooth and flexible. This helps lock in moisture, reduces rough texture and gives products a silky slip that feels comforting on both face and body.

Who Can Use Aspergillus/Poria Cocos Sclerotium Ferment Extract

This fermented mushroom extract is gentle enough for most skin types. Normal, dry and combination skin tend to appreciate its soft, cushiony feel while oily skin can still enjoy it because it is lightweight and water soluble. Very sensitive or allergy-prone skin should monitor how it feels, simply because any natural ferment carries a small risk of individual sensitivity, but overall the ingredient is considered low risk.

Because it is produced from a plant-based mushroom and a mold culture, it contains no animal-derived matter, so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.

No warnings exist for use during pregnancy or breastfeeding. That said this information is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full product label to a healthcare provider before adding it to a routine, just to be safe.

The extract does not increase photosensitivity, so there is no special need to avoid sun exposure beyond the normal daily use of sunscreen.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical Aspergillus/Poria Cocos Sclerotium Ferment Extract can vary from person to person. The points below cover potential reactions only; when the ingredient is used correctly most people experience none of them.

  • Mild redness or flushing
  • Itching or slight stinging immediately after application
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to fungi or mushroom extracts
  • Rare cosmetic acne if used in a very rich formula on already congested skin

If any irritation appears stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5 – very low chance of clogging pores

Aspergillus/Poria Cocos Sclerotium Ferment Extract is a water based, lightweight emollient made up mainly of dissolvable sugars and amino acids, not heavy oils or waxes. These molecules soak in quickly instead of sitting on the surface, so they are unlikely to block follicles.

Most people prone to acne or breakouts can use products containing this extract without added worry.

Keep in mind the overall formula matters: if the extract is mixed into a cream rich in butters or occlusive silicones the final product could still be pore clogging.

Summary

Aspergillus/Poria Cocos Sclerotium Ferment Extract is a fermented mushroom ingredient that works as an emollient. It slips between skin cells to smooth rough patches, improve flexibility and hold on to water so the complexion looks softer and feels cushioned.

While not yet as famous as hyaluronic acid or ceramides it is showing up more often in Korean style moisturizers and soothing masks because formulators appreciate its silky texture and plant based story.

Safety data list it as low risk for irritation, allergy or clogged pores when used at normal cosmetic levels. Still, whenever you bring a new product into your routine do a small patch test first to make sure your skin agrees with it.

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