Aspergillus/Soybean Shoot Ferment Extract: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Aspergillus/Soybean Shoot Ferment Extract?

Aspergillus/Soybean Shoot Ferment Extract is a plant-derived ingredient created by fermenting young soybean shoots with the safe and food-grade fungus Aspergillus. The process breaks down large soybean molecules into smaller, more skin-friendly compounds like peptides, amino acids and natural sugars that can help support the skin’s surface. Fermentation has been used for centuries in foods such as miso and sake, and the same idea was later applied to skincare by Japanese and Korean formulators looking to unlock gentler, more potent plant actives for beauty products. To make the extract, freshly harvested soybean shoots are cleaned, lightly crushed then inoculated with Aspergillus in a temperature-controlled vessel. After several days the mixture is filtered and purified, leaving a clear to light-amber liquid that slips easily into water-based formulations. You will most often see this ferment in hydrating serums, sheet masks, anti-aging creams, soothing gels and brightening essences where a boost of lightweight moisture is desired.

Aspergillus/Soybean Shoot Ferment Extract’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This fermented soy extract is used mainly for one key role in cosmetics.

Skin conditioning: The peptides, amino acids and carbohydrates produced during fermentation help attract and hold water at the skin’s surface, leaving it softer, smoother and better able to resist dryness. The gentle nature of the ferment makes it suitable for daily leave-on products as well as rinse-off masks, and it pairs well with humectants like glycerin to amplify overall hydration.

Who Can Use Aspergillus/Soybean Shoot Ferment Extract

Aspergillus/Soybean Shoot Ferment Extract is considered friendly for most skin types including dry, normal, combination and oily skin because its main job is to boost hydration without leaving a greasy film. Sensitive skin generally tolerates the ferment well thanks to the gentle breakdown of soy proteins that removes many of the bigger molecules that can cause irritation. If you have a known soy allergy you should avoid products that contain this extract because it is soy derived.

The ingredient is plant based with no animal by-products or animal testing required for its production making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians. The fermenting microbe Aspergillus is a fungus commonly used in food manufacturing and is not sourced from animals.

Current data does not flag any specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding when the extract is used topically at the low levels found in cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before adding new skincare just to stay on the safe side.

The ferment does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so it is not considered photosensitizing. Standard daytime sun protection is still wise for overall skin health.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical use of Aspergillus/Soybean Shoot Ferment Extract differ from person to person. The points below outline possible but uncommon reactions and most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.

  • Redness or stinging in very sensitive skin
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to soy or ferment by-products
  • Mild breakouts in those who cannot tolerate any additional hydration
  • Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes

If you notice any of these issues stop using the product and seek advice from a medical professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5. Aspergillus/Soybean Shoot Ferment Extract is water based and contains mostly small peptides, amino acids and sugars that do not clog pores. It has almost no oil content and a low molecular weight so it rinses or absorbs cleanly without leaving heavy residue on the skin. For these reasons it is generally suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts. Formulas that pair the ferment with richer oils or waxes could raise the overall comedogenicity, so always look at the full ingredient list rather than judging by this extract alone.

Summary

Aspergillus/Soybean Shoot Ferment Extract is used mainly as a skin conditioning agent, delivering lightweight hydration by flooding the surface with moisture holding peptides, amino acids and carbohydrates that result from soybean shoot fermentation. These humectant molecules draw water to the skin and help smooth rough texture, leaving a softer more comfortable feel.

The ferment is seen most often in K-beauty style essences, serums and sheet masks, though it is still considered a niche ingredient compared with classics like hyaluronic acid or glycerin. Brands that favor gentle plant based actives are gradually adopting it for its mild profile and vegan appeal.

Safety data shows a low risk of irritation for the average user as long as there is no soy allergy. Still, every skin is unique so it is smart to patch test any new product that features this extract before full-face use.

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