Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10?

Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10 is a lab-crafted ingredient made by joining azelaic acid, a naturally occurring acid found in grains like barley and wheat, with a small protein fragment known as dipeptide-10. The result is an amide that blends the brightening and soothing traits of azelaic acid with the skin-friendly feel of peptides.

The idea of linking these two molecules grew out of the search for milder yet effective skin care actives during the early 2000s. Chemists discovered that coupling azelaic acid to a peptide could reduce the sting some users feel with pure acids while keeping the benefits. Today the compound is produced through a controlled condensation reaction in which azelaic acid is activated, then bonded to dipeptide-10 in a water-free environment. Once purified and dried it becomes a fine powder ready for cosmetic formulas.

You will spot Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10 in a range of products such as brightening serums, tone-correcting creams, lightweight moisturizers, leave-on masks and targeted treatments aimed at dull or uneven skin. Its mild nature lets brands add it to both daytime and nighttime products without a high risk of irritation.

Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is prized for its role as a skin conditioner, helping formulas feel pleasant and leaving skin looking healthier.

As a skin conditioning agent Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10 supports a smoother, softer surface and can enhance overall radiance. By pairing azelaic acid’s clarifying knack with peptide comfort it helps calm visible redness, even out tone and improve texture, all while maintaining a gentle touch suitable for daily use.

Who Can Use Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10

Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10 suits most skin types including oily, combination, dry, normal and even sensitive skin thanks to its gentle nature. Those with highly reactive or broken skin barriers should introduce it slowly since any new active could aggravate compromised skin.

The molecule is made entirely from non animal sources so it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Production does not rely on animal by-products or derivatives.

Current research shows no known risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10 is used topically at typical cosmetic levels. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should discuss every skincare product with a qualified health professional to be on the safe side.

The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity, meaning it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Daily sunscreen is still recommended as a general skincare best practice.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10 vary from person to person. The points below outline potential reactions that are possible yet unlikely for the average user when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild redness or flushing
  • Transient stinging or tingling after application
  • Dryness or tightness if layered with multiple exfoliating acids
  • Itchiness or a light burning sensation on very sensitive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis presenting as rash or bumps

If a negative reaction occurs discontinue use and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0 / 5

Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10 carries a rating of 0 because its molecular structure is water loving and too large to lodge inside pores. It is crafted from azelaic acid, which has a long track record of being non clogging, linked to a short peptide that further boosts skin compatibility. As a result it neither forms an occlusive film on the surface nor encourages excess oil to build up.

This makes the ingredient suitable for people who are prone to acne or frequent breakouts. Keep in mind overall formula design also affects pore clogging potential, so other ingredients in the product matter too.

Summary

Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10 conditions skin by pairing the brightening and calming abilities of azelaic acid with the smoothing feel of a peptide. The hybrid molecule helps even tone, soften texture and reduce visible redness while remaining gentle enough for everyday routines.

Although not yet a household name it is gaining attention as brands look for milder actives that multitask without irritation. You will mostly find it in targeted serums and creams rather than in mass market cleansers or toners.

Current data points to a strong safety profile with low risk of sensitisation when used at normal cosmetic levels. As with any new skincare product a quick patch test is wise so you can confirm personal tolerance before full-face use.

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