What Is Azelaoyl Pentapeptide-37?
Azelaoyl Pentapeptide-37 is a hybrid ingredient created when azelaic acid, a dicarboxylic acid originally discovered in grains like wheat and barley, is chemically linked to a short chain of five amino acids known as Pentapeptide-37. By combining the soothing qualities of azelaic acid with the targeted performance of a peptide, formulators get a single molecule that addresses both skin and hair concerns.
The peptide portion is produced through controlled laboratory synthesis that strings together five specific amino acids in a set sequence. Azelaic acid is then joined to this peptide through a condensation reaction, yielding a stable compound that is easy to incorporate into water-based or emulsified formulas. Because the process is done in a lab environment, the final material is consistent batch after batch and suitable for vegan or clean-beauty positioned products.
Peptides and azelaic acid have each been studied for decades, but their fusion into Azelaoyl Pentapeptide-37 is relatively new. Cosmetic chemists began exploring it in the past ten years to meet the growing demand for multitasking actives that are gentle yet effective.
You will most often spot Azelaoyl Pentapeptide-37 in lightweight serums, daily moisturizers, leave-on masks, anti-aging creams, brightening essences, scalp tonics and conditioning hair treatments where an extra boost of soothing protection or silky slip is desired.
Azelaoyl Pentapeptide-37’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This versatile ingredient brings two core benefits to beauty formulas
- Hair Conditioning: coats the hair shaft to smooth rough cuticles, reduces tangles, adds a light silky feel and helps protect strands from environmental stress so hair looks softer and more manageable
- Skin Protecting: supports the skin’s natural barrier, minimizes moisture loss, calms visible redness and offers mild antioxidant support, leaving the complexion feeling comfortable and resilient
Who Can Use Azelaoyl Pentapeptide-37
This peptide-acid blend is gentle enough for most skin types including dry, normal, combination, oily and even sensitive skin thanks to its calming azelaic component and barrier-supportive action. Extremely reactive or allergy-prone skin may still want to proceed with caution because any new active can trigger unforeseen irritation.
The material is produced entirely through laboratory synthesis without animal byproducts so it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
Current research and product safety assessments suggest that topical use is generally regarded as low risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, yet this is not medical advice. Anyone expecting or nursing should show the complete product ingredient list to a qualified healthcare provider just to be safe.
Azelaoyl Pentapeptide-37 does not increase photosensitivity, however daily sunscreen is still recommended to protect overall skin health.
It can also be used on the scalp and hair shaft so people looking for smoother strands or a calmer scalp may benefit regardless of hair texture or curl pattern.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Azelaoyl Pentapeptide-37 differ from person to person. The points below outline potential but uncommon issues. When correctly formulated most users experience none of these effects.
- Mild stinging or tingling shortly after application
- Temporary redness or warmth in sensitive areas
- Dry or flaky patches if layered with other strong actives
- Itching or rash in those allergic to one of the formula’s other ingredients
- Eye irritation if the product accidentally migrates into the eye
- Scalp build-up or greasiness when over-applied in hair treatments
If a negative reaction occurs stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Azelaoyl Pentapeptide-37 is a small, water-friendly molecule with no heavy oils or waxes so it is very unlikely to block pores. Most formulations that feature it are lightweight serums or lotions, further lowering any clogging risk. A score of 1 reflects this low likelihood while acknowledging that any ingredient can still cause issues if paired with richer bases or applied too heavily.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin.
If the finished product contains thick butters, occlusive silicones or high levels of fatty alcohols the overall formula, not the peptide itself, could shift the clogging potential upward.
Summary
Azelaoyl Pentapeptide-37 conditions hair and protects skin by merging the soothing antioxidant nature of azelaic acid with the targeted signaling benefits of a five-amino-acid peptide. On hair it forms a light film that smooths cuticles and boosts softness. On skin it supports the barrier, calms redness and guards against moisture loss.
While not as mainstream as retinol or niacinamide this hybrid active is quietly gaining traction in niche brightening serums, calming moisturizers and scalp treatments thanks to its gentle multitasking profile.
Current safety reviews place it in the low-risk category for topical use, with only occasional mild irritation reported. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is smart to patch test first to be sure your skin plays nicely with the finished product.