What Is Bis-(C12-14 Alkyl Ppg-2) Hexamethylenediurea?
Bis-(C12-14 Alkyl Ppg-2) Hexamethylenediurea is an organic compound created by linking medium-chain fatty alcohols (typically from coconut or palm sources) with a small polyethylene glycol segment and a hexamethylenediurea core. This marriage of oil-loving alkyl chains and water-friendly polyethylene glycol gives the ingredient an amphiphilic nature, meaning it can interact with both oils and water in a formula. It first appeared in cosmetic chemistry in the early 2000s when formulators were searching for milder alternatives to traditional thickeners that could keep modern, lightweight textures stable. Production starts with naturally derived C12-C14 alcohols that are reacted with propylene oxide to add two propylene glycol units, then coupled with hexamethylenediisocyanate followed by controlled hydrolysis to form the diurea link. The result is a waxy, low-odor material supplied as a liquid or soft solid that melts easily into emulsions. You will most often find it in creams, lotions, serums, sunscreens and rinse-off products like masks or cleansing balms where a smooth, cushiony feel is desired without a heavy finish.
Bis-(C12-14 Alkyl Ppg-2) Hexamethylenediurea’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient plays a single but important role in formulation.
As a viscosity controlling agent it fine-tunes the thickness of a product so the texture feels just right when you scoop, pump or spread it on the skin. By stabilizing emulsions it prevents watery separation in creams, keeps oils from floating to the top in lotions and ensures that serums glide evenly. A well-controlled viscosity also helps active ingredients stay uniformly dispersed which supports consistent application and performance.
Who Can Use Bis-(C12-14 Alkyl Ppg-2) Hexamethylenediurea
This thickening agent suits dry, normal and oily skin alike because it has a low oil content, leaves no greasy residue and does not strip moisture. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well since it has little to no fragrance and a mild pH profile. Those who struggle with very acne-prone skin may still prefer lighter formulas, but the ingredient itself is not known to be pore clogging.
It is typically produced from plant-derived fatty alcohols and synthetic intermediates with no animal by-products, so it is considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians. Still, certification depends on the finished brand and manufacturing standards.
Current safety data show no specific risks for pregnancy or breastfeeding when used topically in the tiny amounts found in cosmetics. This is not medical advice and anyone pregnant or nursing should ask a healthcare professional before starting a new product, just to be safe.
Bis-(C12-14 Alkyl Ppg-2) Hexamethylenediurea does not cause photosensitivity and will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also odorless and colorless, so it rarely affects fragrance or dye sensitivities.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Bis-(C12-14 Alkyl Ppg-2) Hexamethylenediurea differ from person to person. The effects below are possible yet uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.
- Mild transient redness or warming sensation in very sensitive skin
- Temporary stinging if applied to broken or freshly exfoliated skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis presenting as itching or small bumps
- Slight eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
If any of these reactions occur stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist or worsen.
Comedogenic Rating
Bis-(C12-14 Alkyl Ppg-2) Hexamethylenediurea scores a 1 on the comedogenic scale. Its long-chain alkyl groups melt into formulas without leaving a heavy occlusive film and the low usage level (usually under 2 percent) limits residue that might trap debris in pores. Laboratory data and routine market use show minimal reports of clogging or acne flare-ups compared with richer fatty thickeners like glyceryl stearate or isopropyl myristate.
Given this low rating it is generally fine for breakout-prone skin, provided the overall product is non-comedogenic.
As with any texture agent its pore-clogging potential depends on the full formula and how thoroughly the product is rinsed or removed, so lightweight leave-ons and rinse-offs pose the least risk.
Summary
Bis-(C12-14 Alkyl Ppg-2) Hexamethylenediurea is a viscosity controller that steadies emulsions and fine-tunes thickness so creams, lotions and serums feel smooth yet never heavy. Its amphiphilic structure lets it anchor oil droplets while mingling with water, giving stable silky textures at very low doses.
It is not a headline ingredient and you will mostly spot it tucked into the middle of an INCI list, but formulators appreciate its reliability which keeps it quietly present in many mainstream moisturizers and sunscreens.
Current safety assessments rate it as low risk for irritation or sensitization when used as directed. Still, skin is personal so doing a quick patch test with any new product that contains this ingredient is the safest way to rule out individual sensitivities.