What Is Bis-C24-28 Hydroxyalkyl Olivoyl Glutamate?
Bis-C24-28 Hydroxyalkyl Olivoyl Glutamate is a plant-derived conditioning agent created by combining glutamic acid, a naturally occurring amino acid, with fatty components sourced from olive oil and extra long-chain fatty alcohols. The result is a mild, skin-friendly molecule that looks after both oil and water phases in a formula, making it valuable wherever a silky stable texture is needed.
The ingredient belongs to a newer generation of olive-based surfactants developed in the early 2000s when formulators began searching for gentle alternatives to harsher petroleum-derived emulsifiers. Manufacturers usually produce it through a two-step reaction: first they bond olive fatty acids to glutamic acid to form an “olivoyl glutamate,” then they attach C24-28 hydroxyalkyl chains, which boost richness and viscosity. The finished material appears as an off-white paste or soft solid that melts easily into oils.
You will spot Bis-C24-28 Hydroxyalkyl Olivoyl Glutamate in moisturizers, barrier-repair creams, night balms, anti-aging serums, cleansing balms, sunscreens and even some nourishing hair masks where a smooth cushiony feel is desired.
Bis-C24-28 Hydroxyalkyl Olivoyl Glutamate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators turn to this olive-derived ingredient for the multi-tasking boost it gives to both texture and skin comfort.
- Emulsion stabilising: Helps oil and water stay mixed so the product remains smooth and uniform throughout its shelf life which prevents separation and gritty pockets
- Emollient: Leaves a soft non-greasy film on the skin that reduces moisture loss and imparts a luxurious glide during application
- Skin protecting: Forms a light breathable shield that guards the skin surface from external irritants while supporting the natural barrier
- Viscosity controlling: Thickens the formula just enough to create a rich cushiony feel without making it heavy or sticky
Who Can Use Bis-C24-28 Hydroxyalkyl Olivoyl Glutamate
This olive derived ingredient is generally well tolerated by all skin types. Dry, mature and sensitive skin in particular tend to enjoy its cushioning emollient feel, while normal and combination skin benefit from the added barrier support without feeling greasy. Even oily or breakout prone skin usually finds it lightweight enough because its long chain structure does not clog pores easily.
Because it is manufactured entirely from plant sources and contains no animal by products it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.
No data suggest any hormonal or systemic concerns so products containing Bis-C24-28 Hydroxyalkyl Olivoyl Glutamate are considered safe for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should still clear every skincare product with their doctor to be extra safe.
The molecule does not absorb UV light and is not known to cause photosensitivity. It also plays well with most other cosmetic ingredients, including acids, retinoids and vitamin C, so there are no special usage restrictions beyond normal good formulating practice.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Bis-C24-28 Hydroxyalkyl Olivoyl Glutamate vary from person to person. The following is a list of potential side effects that could occur, though they are uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly and in appropriate amounts.
- Mild redness or stinging in extremely sensitive skin
- Itchiness or irritation if applied to already compromised or broken skin
- Very rare allergic contact dermatitis due to olive or glutamate sensitivity
- Occasional surface congestion or tiny bumps if layered with multiple heavy occlusives on oily skin
If any discomfort, persistent redness or swelling appears stop using the product and consult a qualified healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Bis-C24-28 Hydroxyalkyl Olivoyl Glutamate earns a comedogenic rating of 1 out of 5. Its very long carbon chains make the molecule too bulky to slip deep into pores where clogging usually starts, and the glutamate portion keeps the texture light rather than waxy. While it delivers a soft occlusive feel, it does so at low use levels and tends to sit on the skin surface in a breathable film, so buildup is unlikely.
Because of this low rating it is generally fine for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin, provided the rest of the formula is also lightweight.
As with many plant-derived fatty ingredients, comedogenicity can creep up if the product is overloaded with other rich oils or if applied in very thick layers, so overall formulation matters.
Summary
Bis-C24-28 Hydroxyalkyl Olivoyl Glutamate acts as an emulsion stabiliser, emollient, skin protectant and viscosity controller. It anchors oil and water together for a smooth stable texture, cushions the skin with a silky non-greasy layer that slows moisture loss, reinforces the barrier against everyday irritants and thickens formulas just enough to feel plush without heaviness.
Despite these perks it remains something of a niche ingredient, appreciated mainly by formulators aiming for gentle plant-based alternatives rather than by the mass market. You will see it more often in mid to high-end skincare or in products that highlight olive derivatives.
Current safety data show it to be low risk for irritation or systemic effects, making it suitable for most skin types including sensitive or pregnant users. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains this ingredient before fully incorporating it into your routine.