What Is Bis-Cetearamidoethyldiethonium Succinoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin?
Bis-Cetearamidoethyldiethonium Succinoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin is a specialty hair care ingredient created by bonding fatty amine derivatives of cetyl and stearyl alcohol to tiny fragments of keratin protein that have been partially broken down, then neutralizing the blend with succinic acid to form a quaternary ammonium salt. The fatty portion is plant derived, usually from coconut or palm oils, while the keratin peptides are typically sourced from wool or other keratin-rich materials. Developed in the early 2000s as formulators looked for “next generation” conditioning agents that cling to damaged hair more effectively than traditional silicones, it quickly found a home in premium salon lines.
Manufacturing starts with hydrolyzing keratin under controlled heat and enzymatic action until the protein chains are reduced to small, water-soluble peptides. Separately, cetyl and stearyl alcohol are reacted with diethylamine to obtain cetearamidoethyl diethylamine. The two streams are combined with succinic anhydride, yielding a positively charged quaternary compound that is then filtered, dried, and milled into a fine powder or supplied as a 30 percent aqueous solution.
You will spot Bis-Cetearamidoethyldiethonium Succinoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin in rinse-off and leave-in conditioners, hair masks, color-protecting shampoos, heat-defense sprays, anti-frizz serums, and strengthening treatments aimed at bleached or chemically relaxed hair. Its cationic nature lets it latch onto negatively charged, damaged sites along the hair shaft, making it a favorite for rescue formulas that promise smoother, shinier strands.
Bis-Cetearamidoethyldiethonium Succinoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient serves a single but important role in hair care formulations:
As a hair conditioning agent it deposits a lightweight film of keratin-rich peptides and fatty quats onto the cuticle, helping to fill in microscopic cracks, reduce static, improve combability, boost shine, and leave hair feeling softer without heavy buildup.
Who Can Use Bis-Cetearamidoethyldiethonium Succinoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin
The ingredient is generally well tolerated by all scalp and hair types including dry, oily, fine and color treated strands. Its lightweight film tends not to weigh hair down or leave a greasy feel so even those with easily weighed-down locks usually do fine.
Because the keratin portion is typically sourced from wool the material is not suitable for strict vegans. Vegetarians who are comfortable with animal-derived proteins may still choose to use it but those seeking entirely plant-based formulas should look for soy or pea protein alternatives.
No reports indicate that the ingredient poses special risks to pregnant or breastfeeding women when used in rinse-off or leave-in hair products. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run any product past a qualified healthcare provider to be safe.
Bis-Cetearamidoethyldiethonium Succinoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin does not make skin or hair more sensitive to sunlight so no added sun precautions are needed. It is also nonvolatile so it will not exacerbate respiratory issues during normal use.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Bis-Cetearamidoethyldiethonium Succinoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin vary from person to person. The points below outline potential but uncommon effects when the ingredient is used as intended in cosmetic products.
- Mild scalp irritation such as itching, redness and flaking
- Contact allergy in individuals sensitive to wool derivatives or quaternary ammonium compounds
- Product buildup that can leave hair limp or dull if formulations are layered without proper cleansing
- Stinging of eyes if a high-concentration leave-in drips into the ocular area
- Very rare cross-reaction with lanolin allergy leading to dermatitis
If you notice any of these reactions stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5. Bis-Cetearamidoethyldiethonium Succinoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin is a large, water-soluble quaternary compound that tends to stay on the hair shaft rather than penetrate facial pores. Although it carries fatty cetyl and stearyl groups, its cationic nature keeps it dispersed in water-based formulas, limiting any pore-clogging potential. Because of that, it is generally considered suitable for skin that is prone to acne or breakouts.
Most products using this ingredient are rinse-off conditioners applied mainly to the mid-lengths of hair, so facial exposure is minimal. Leave-in sprays may leave trace amounts on the skin around the hairline, yet the molecule’s size and solubility still make clogging unlikely.
Summary
Bis-Cetearamidoethyldiethonium Succinoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin is a hair conditioning agent that smooths cuticles, reduces static and boosts shine by depositing a lightweight film of keratin peptides and fatty quats onto damaged spots along the hair shaft. The positive charge helps it bind tightly where hair is negatively charged, giving lasting softness without heavy buildup.
It is a boutique ingredient seen mostly in salon and prestige lines rather than mass-market shampoos, prized for its ability to mimic the feel of a fresh salon treatment at home.
Current safety data shows it is low risk for irritation or systemic effects when used as directed, although anyone with very reactive skin should still patch test a new product first to be on the safe side.