What Is Bis-Hea Ipdi/Ppg-53 Copolymer?
Bis-Hea Ipdi/Ppg-53 Copolymer is a man-made polymer created by linking together PPG-53, a mid-weight form of polypropylene glycol, with isophorone diisocyanate. The chain is then capped with 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, which locks the structure in place and gives it a stable, film-forming character. The ingredient is entirely synthetic, so it is not harvested from plants or animals, and its raw materials come from the petrochemical industry.
Polyurethane-style polymers like this one started appearing in skin and hair care during the late 1990s when formulators wanted flexible yet durable films that could stand up to water, sweat and rubbing. Over time, chemists refined the recipe to improve feel on the skin and make it easier to blend with common emulsifiers, humectants and oils. The version capped with HEA proved especially useful because it dissolves well in both water-based and alcohol-based systems.
Manufacturing begins with controlled heating of PPG-53 and isophorone diisocyanate so the two react and form long chains. Once the target molecular weight is reached, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate is added to cap the reactive ends and prevent further growth. The finished polymer is filtered, tested for purity and either supplied as a viscous liquid or dispersed in a solvent for easy blending.
You will mostly find Bis-Hea Ipdi/Ppg-53 Copolymer in long-wear makeup, waterproof sunscreens, facial primers, transfer-resistant foundations, liquid eyeliners and certain hair styling sprays. It can also show up in sheet masks or peel-off masks where a flexible film is needed to lift debris from the skin.
Bis-Hea Ipdi/Ppg-53 Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
The main job of Bis-Hea Ipdi/Ppg-53 Copolymer in a formula is binding, and that single role brings several practical benefits.
As a binder it helps pigment particles, sunscreen filters and other actives stick to each other and to the skin or hair. This improves wear time, resists smudging and keeps the product from flaking. The flexible film it forms also locks in moisture without feeling heavy and gives makeup a smoother, more even finish.
Who Can Use Bis-Hea Ipdi/Ppg-53 CopolymerBecause this polymer is lightweight and flexible it suits most skin types including normal, dry and combination skin. Those with very oily or blemish-prone skin may find the film it forms a little too occlusive in heavy, long-wear formulas, though the ingredient itself is not inherently pore-clogging.
Bis-Hea Ipdi/Ppg-53 Copolymer is fully synthetic and contains no animal-derived raw materials so it is suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.
Current safety data show no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is used as intended in cosmetics. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any skincare or makeup product past a doctor just to be safe.
The ingredient does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no known interactions with common UV filters or actives such as retinoids or acids.
It is also fragrance-free and gluten-free by nature which can be helpful for people managing sensitivities or allergies in those categories.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects and reactions to the topical application of Bis-Hea Ipdi/Ppg-53 Copolymer can vary from person to person. The following points list potential issues, though they are uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.
- Mild skin irritation or redness in individuals who are sensitive to polyurethane-type polymers
- Contact dermatitis triggered by residual monomers or solvents if purification was inadequate
- Temporary pore blockage or acne-like bumps when used in very heavy waterproof formulations on oily skin
- Eye irritation if the raw material or finished product accidentally gets into the eyes before it sets
- Respiratory irritation from inhaling aerosolized particles when the ingredient is used in spray hair products
If you experience any negative reaction discontinue use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Bis-Hea Ipdi/Ppg-53 Copolymer is a large, non-penetrating molecule that sits on the surface and forms a flexible film, so it does not easily slip into pores or mix with skin sebum. Laboratory tests and user reports show very low pore-clogging potential, though extremely heavy waterproof formulas that use a high percentage of the polymer can feel occlusive on oily skin. Overall it is considered suitable for acne-prone users, especially when used in lightweight makeup or sunscreen formats.
Because it is usually paired with volatile solvents that evaporate after application, the residual film left behind is thin which further reduces the risk of congestion.
Summary
Bis-Hea Ipdi/Ppg-53 Copolymer acts primarily as a binder, helping pigments, UV filters and actives adhere securely to skin or hair. It achieves this by forming a clear, flexible polyurethane film that resists water, sweat and friction, which lengthens wear time and improves the smoothness of makeup finishes. While not as famous as silicones or traditional film formers, it has carved out a steady niche in long-wear foundations, liquid eyeliners and waterproof sunscreens because formulators appreciate its balance of durability and light feel.
Current safety data classifies the polymer as low risk when used in cosmetic concentrations, with only rare reports of irritation tied to impurities rather than the polymer itself. As with any new skincare or makeup item it is wise to patch test first to rule out individual sensitivities.