What Is Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Diol/Hdi Copolymer?
Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Diol/Hdi Copolymer is a synthetic polymer created by combining 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, hexamethylene diisocyanate and caprolactone. The result is a flexible film-forming material that works especially well in water-based and hybrid formulas. First developed for industrial coatings that needed strong yet elastic films, chemists later noticed its smooth finish and skin-friendly profile, leading to its entry into the cosmetic world during the early 2000s.
The production process starts with ring-opening polymerization of caprolactone to form polycaprolactone diol. This diol then reacts with hexamethylene diisocyanate, and finally 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate is grafted on to give the copolymer its unique balance of softness and durability. Each step is carefully controlled to keep residual monomers low and ensure the final material meets cosmetic safety standards.
Today the ingredient appears in a variety of leave-on and rinse-off products. You will most often find it in long-wear makeup, peel-off masks, anti-aging serums, lightweight moisturizers, hair styling creams and nail treatments where it helps hold pigments or actives in place while giving a smooth flexible feel.
Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Diol/Hdi Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is prized for its ability to improve how a formula looks feels and lasts on skin or hair.
Binding: The copolymer creates a thin flexible film that locks pigments, powders or active ingredients onto the skin surface. This boosts wear time, prevents color migration, reduces product flaking and keeps beneficial ingredients where they are meant to work. The film also adds a soft touch finish that resists cracking or stiffness, enhancing overall comfort during wear.
Who Can Use Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Diol/Hdi Copolymer
This flexible film former is generally suitable for all skin types, including dry, normal, combination and oily complexions. Its breathable finish avoids the heavy occlusion that can trouble acne-prone skin yet still offers enough moisture retention for drier faces. Most sensitive users tolerate it well because the large polymer structure does not easily penetrate living skin layers, though anyone with a known polyurethane or acrylate allergy should proceed with caution.
The raw materials and finished polymer are entirely synthetic so the ingredient is appropriate for both vegetarians and vegans. No animal-derived feedstocks or processing aids are used during manufacture.
Current safety assessments have not flagged any pregnancy or breastfeeding restrictions. The polymer is considered inert on skin and unlikely to enter the bloodstream. That said, this is not medical advice; pregnant or nursing individuals should show the full product ingredient list to their healthcare provider before regular use just to be safe.
Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Diol/Hdi Copolymer does not absorb UV light and does not increase photosensitivity. It also has no known interactions with common actives such as retinoids, vitamin C or hydroxy acids.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Diol/Hdi Copolymer vary from person to person. The following points outline potential reactions. When the ingredient is used at appropriate levels in a well-formulated product most people will not experience any of these issues.
- Mild skin irritation – a temporary feeling of itching or burning, usually due to very dry or compromised skin
- Contact dermatitis – redness, rash or swelling in users allergic to acrylates, isocyanates or polyurethanes
- Sensitization over time – rare delayed allergy that can develop after repeated exposure to residual monomers
- Eye irritation – stinging or watering if the raw polymer dust or an unfinished formula gets into the eyes during manufacturing
- Acne flare-ups – uncommon congestion in individuals extremely prone to blocked pores when heavy makeup films are not removed thoroughly
If any adverse reaction occurs stop using the product immediately and consult a healthcare professional if symptoms persist or worsen.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Diol/Hdi Copolymer forms a breathable lightweight film that sits on top of the skin rather than sinking into pores. It is not oily or waxy and does not provide a food source for acne-causing bacteria. Because of its large molecular size and low surface tack it is unlikely to trap dirt or dead cells, giving it a very low clogging potential. A score of 1 reflects this minimal but not entirely impossible risk, especially if layered with heavy oils or not removed properly.
Most people prone to acne or breakouts should find the ingredient acceptable
The only extra consideration is product build-up. If you wear long-wear makeup with this polymer daily make sure to remove it thoroughly at night to avoid surface congestion over time.
Summary
Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Diol/Hdi Copolymer acts mainly as a binder and film former. Its flexible polymer chain locks pigments actives and styling agents in place so makeup lasts longer serums stay where they are applied and hair products maintain hold without stiffness. The film it creates is thin smooth and barely noticeable which improves product feel while resisting cracking or flaking.
Although not a household name it appears quietly in many long-wear cosmetics peel-off masks and lightweight moisturizers where performance and comfort matter. Formulators appreciate its versatility so its use is gradually growing across both prestige and mass brands.
Safety evaluations rate the polymer as low risk because it stays on the skin surface and has very low levels of residual monomers. Still everyone’s skin is unique so patch test any new product that contains this ingredient to be on the safe side.