What Is Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Diol/Ipdi Copolymer?
Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Diol/Ipdi Copolymer is a lab-made polymer created by linking together small chains of polycaprolactone diol with isophorone diisocyanate, then “capping” the ends with hydroxyethyl acrylate. The result is a long, flexible molecule that behaves a bit like a soft plastic when dry yet remains dispersible in cosmetic formulas. Polycaprolactone itself is a biodegradable polyester first explored in the 1970s for medical sutures, and formulators later discovered that combining it with IPDI could yield resins ideal for coatings, hair sprays, and eventually personal-care products. By the early 2000s the beauty industry had adopted this specific copolymer because it offers dependable film-forming and binding without the stiffness associated with older synthetic resins.
Manufacturing starts with ring-opening polymerization of caprolactone to produce the diol, which is then reacted with IPDI under controlled heat to form urethane links. Finally hydroxyethyl acrylate is added to cap the polymer, improving compatibility with water-based systems. After purification the thick, slightly tacky material is delivered as a liquid resin or dispersed in solvents.
You will most often find Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Diol/Ipdi Copolymer in long-wear makeup, liquid eyeliners, waterproof mascaras, brow gels, nail polishes, transfer-resistant lip colors, certain sheet masks, and flexible skincare primers that need a lightweight film to hold actives on the skin.
Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Diol/Ipdi Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
The ingredient has one primary role in cosmetics: binding. By acting as a binder it helps pigments, powders, and other ingredients adhere evenly to each other and to the skin or hair. This improves wear time, reduces flaking, and gives products a smooth, uniform finish that stands up to sweat, sebum, and daily movement.
Who Can Use Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Diol/Ipdi Copolymer
This polymer is considered non-comedogenic and light, making it suitable for dry, normal and oily skin. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it well because it stays on the surface and is chemically inert, though anyone with a known polyurethane allergy should steer clear.
The material is made entirely from synthetic feedstocks, so products featuring it are typically vegan and vegetarian friendly. No animal-derived substances are required anywhere in the production process.
Current safety data show no reproductive toxicity, so women who are pregnant or breastfeeding can use cosmetics containing this binder. That said, this is not medical advice and it is always best for expectant or nursing mothers to run any product by their healthcare provider for personal guidance.
Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Diol/Ipdi Copolymer does not increase photosensitivity and has no known UV-related concerns. It can be worn under sunscreen without affecting protection.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects or reactions to topical Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Diol/Ipdi Copolymer vary from person to person. The points below highlight potential issues, though they are rare when the ingredient is used correctly by reputable brands.
- Mild skin irritation in individuals with very reactive skin or a polyurethane sensitivity
- Contact dermatitis marked by redness or itchiness if an allergy to isocyanate-based polymers exists
- Eye stinging or watering if the raw ingredient gets into the eyes during application of mascara or eyeliner
- Transient clogged pores in extremely acne-prone users when layered with heavy occlusive products
If any of these effects occur stop using the product and consult a medical professional for assessment and care.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Diol/Ipdi Copolymer forms a breathable, flexible film that sits on top of the skin rather than sinking into pores, so it has little tendency to trap oil or dead cells. Its large molecular size and smooth finish let sebum flow out normally, which keeps pore blockages to a minimum. For this reason it is generally fine for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin. Only when combined with heavy occlusives or used in very thick layers might there be a slight risk of congestion.
Summary
Bis-Hea Polycaprolactone Diol/Ipdi Copolymer is mainly a binder and film former, holding pigments and other particles together so makeup or skincare adheres evenly and lasts longer. It achieves this by creating a thin, elastic mesh that resists water, sweat and daily movement while remaining lightweight. Although not as famous as silicone elastomers or traditional acrylic resins, it has carved out a quiet niche in long-wear eye products, lip colors and flexible primers because of its balance of grip and comfort.
Current data show it is low risk for irritation, non-sensitizing and largely non-comedogenic, so most users can apply it safely. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is still smart to patch test a finished product first to make sure your skin agrees with the entire formula.