Bis-Hema Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-13/1,4-Butanediol/Ipdi Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Bis-Hema Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-13/1,4-Butanediol/Ipdi Copolymer?

Bis-HEMA Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-13/1,4-Butanediol/IPDI Copolymer is a synthetic urethane polymer created by reacting three main building blocks: a long-chain version of butanediol, regular 1,4-butanediol, and isophorone diisocyanate. After these components link together they are capped with HEMA, a common ingredient in nail and dental products that helps the finished material blend smoothly into cosmetic formulas. The result is a clear flexible polymer that works as a strong binder.

Urethane chemistry has been popular in coatings and adhesives for decades because it produces durable yet lightweight films. Cosmetic chemists borrowed this know-how in the early 2000s to improve the wear and feel of makeup, skin care, and hair care products. By tweaking the length of the butanediol chain and controlling the amount of IPDI, manufacturers can fine-tune the polymer’s flexibility and solubility, which means it can dissolve into creams or form stay-put films in liquids.

Production starts with carefully measured batches of the three core molecules in a sealed reactor. They are heated and stirred under nitrogen to avoid unwanted moisture. As the reaction progresses, the small molecules link into long chains and the chemists monitor viscosity to hit the right molecular weight. Finally, HEMA is added to “cap” any remaining reactive sites so the polymer stays stable in storage. After cooling, the thick resin is diluted into a cosmetic-grade solvent or water-based dispersion so it can be pumped into large drums and shipped to formulators.

You will most often find Bis-HEMA Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-13/1,4-Butanediol/IPDI Copolymer in long-wear foundations, liquid lipsticks, waterproof mascaras, transfer-resistant sunscreens, peel-off masks, certain nail products, and flexible hair styling gels. In each case it helps the product grip the skin, hair, or nail surface while keeping the finish smooth and comfortable.

Bis-Hema Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-13/1,4-Butanediol/Ipdi Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In cosmetics this ingredient serves a single purpose that can still have a big impact on product performance.

Binding: It holds the entire formula together by linking pigments, powders, or active ingredients into a uniform film on skin, hair, or nails. This boosts adhesion so color stays vibrant, prevents ingredients from separating in the bottle, improves water and sweat resistance, and gives the finished product a smoother glide during application.

Who Can Use Bis-Hema Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-13/1,4-Butanediol/Ipdi Copolymer

This film-forming polymer is lightweight and nonocclusive so it works well for nearly all skin types including oily, normal and combination. Dry skin can also benefit because the flexible film helps reduce surface moisture loss without feeling heavy. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it since the molecule is large and sits on top of the skin, though anyone with a history of polyurethane or acrylic allergies should be cautious.

The ingredient is fully synthetic and does not rely on animal-derived raw materials, making it suitable for both vegans and vegetarians. As always, check the finished product for any other animal ingredients or for brand policies on animal testing if that is a concern.

Because the polymer is high in molecular weight and stays on the skin surface, systemic absorption is considered negligible. Current safety data show no specific risks for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, but this is not medical advice. Expectant or nursing mothers should ask their physician before starting any new cosmetic product just to be safe.

Bis-HEMA Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-13/1,4-Butanediol/IPDI Copolymer does not make the skin more sensitive to sunlight so there is no added need for special sun precautions beyond normal daily SPF use.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Bis-Hema Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-13/1,4-Butanediol/IPDI Copolymer vary from person to person. The issues listed below are possible but unlikely for most users when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.

  • Skin irritation – a small number of users may notice redness, stinging or itching, especially on already compromised or highly sensitive skin
  • Allergic contact dermatitis – rare cases of allergy to urethane or acrylic type polymers can cause rash or swelling
  • Eye discomfort – if the raw polymer or a product containing it accidentally gets into the eyes it can trigger watering or mild burning until rinsed out
  • Respiratory irritation – inhaling fine mist from spray products that include the polymer could temporarily irritate the nose or throat

If you experience any of the above reactions stop using the product and seek medical advice if symptoms do not quickly improve.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5 — This polymer sits on top of the skin in a thin breathable film and is not oily, waxy or fatty, which keeps pore-clogging potential very low. A score of 0 would apply to ingredients that cannot form any sort of occlusive layer, while Bis-HEMA Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-13/1,4-Butanediol/IPDI Copolymer does create a light film that might, in rare cases, trap debris if skin is already congested, so it earns a conservative 1.

That makes it generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.

Because the molecule is large and chemically inert it is unlikely to interact with sebum or cosmetics already on the skin, further reducing the chance of blocked pores.

Summary

Bis-HEMA Poly(1,4-Butanediol)-13/1,4-Butanediol/IPDI Copolymer is a synthetic film-former whose main job is binding pigments, actives and other ingredients into a flexible uniform layer that resists water, sweat and fading. It achieves this by linking long urethane chains that grip the skin surface without feeling heavy.

The polymer is not a household name but it appears in a growing number of long-wear foundations, liquid lipsticks, waterproof mascaras and peel-off masks where durable yet comfortable wear is prized.

Current safety data show a low risk of irritation or allergy, and the ingredient is considered non-comedogenic for most users. Still, skin is personal so it is wise to patch test any new product containing this polymer before applying it widely.

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