What Is Bis-Hema Poly(Caprolactone Hexanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer?
Bis-Hema Poly(Caprolactone Hexanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer is a synthetic polymer created by linking caprolactone, hexanediol and isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) then capping the chain with HEMA units so it can blend smoothly into water based formulas. Caprolactone is a biodegradable polyester while hexanediol is a lightweight diol often used as a building block in plastics. IPDI is a cycloaliphatic isocyanate valued for producing clear flexible films. When these pieces are combined chemists get a versatile film forming material that stays transparent yet flexible on skin or nails.
The ingredient emerged from research in the late 1990s aimed at improving the durability of nail coatings and long wear makeup. By grafting HEMA onto the polymer chain manufacturers could disperse the resin in traditional acrylic systems without extra solvents. Over time its strong yet breathable film found a place in a wide range of color cosmetics and skincare.
Industrial production involves ring opening polymerization of caprolactone with hexanediol to produce a caprolactone diol. This intermediate then reacts with IPDI to form a pre-polymer that is finally capped with hydroxyethyl methacrylate. The result is a high molecular weight copolymer supplied as a viscous liquid or solid flakes that dissolve in common cosmetic solvents.
You will usually see Bis-Hema Poly(Caprolactone Hexanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer in long lasting nail lacquers, peel off face masks, transfer resistant foundations, waterproof mascaras, liquid lipsticks and some antiaging serums that aim to form a tightening film on the skin surface.
Bis-Hema Poly(Caprolactone Hexanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is prized for the protective layer it creates once a product dries on skin hair or nails.
As a film forming agent it spreads into a thin even coat that locks pigment in place, boosts water and rub resistance, reduces moisture loss and imparts a smooth glossy finish. The flexible nature of the polymer means the film moves with facial expressions without cracking so makeup stays comfortable and fresh looking for longer.
Who Can Use Bis-Hema Poly(Caprolactone Hexanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer
Thanks to its inert film and lightweight feel this polymer suits most skin types including oily combination dry and even sensitive skin. It does not add oil or fragrance so breakouts and stinging are uncommon. Very dry or eczema-prone skin might find the film a bit tight unless the formula also contains emollients.
The ingredient is produced entirely from synthetic raw materials with no animal derivatives so it is generally considered friendly for vegans and vegetarians. As always check the full ingredient list because other components in the finished product may not follow the same standard.
No studies have linked the polymer itself to issues in pregnancy or while breastfeeding and skin absorption is expected to be minimal. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should review any cosmetic product with their doctor to be extra safe.
Bis-Hema Poly(Caprolactone Hexanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer is not known to cause photosensitivity and will not make skin more reactive to the sun. Its clear flexible film can actually help hold sunscreen particles in place when used in sun care formulas.
The polymer is safe for use around the eyes and on nails though removal of very tough long wear products may require stronger solvents which can dry the surrounding skin if overused.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Bis-Hema Poly(Caprolactone Hexanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer differ from person to person. The effects below are possible but unlikely for most users when the ingredient is formulated correctly.
Mild skin irritation – very sensitive skin may feel temporary redness or itching especially if the product is layered thickly
Allergic contact dermatitis – rare but can occur in individuals already sensitized to acrylates or isocyanate residues
Eye irritation – if mascara or liner flakes into the eye it can cause watering or a gritty sensation until rinsed out
Nail dryness or brittleness – repeated use of heavy duty nail lacquers containing the polymer may dehydrate the nail plate if removers with strong solvents are used frequently
Follicle occlusion – very occlusive long wear makeup could trap sweat in hot humid conditions leading to temporary bumps or milia
If any negative reaction develops stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5 – Bis-Hema Poly(Caprolactone Hexanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer is considered very low on the clog-pore scale. The molecule is large and inert, sits on top of skin, contains no heavy oils or waxes and forms a breathable film that lets sweat escape. While an airtight layer could in theory trap debris, the polymer’s flexible structure prevents a full seal so buildup is unlikely for most people.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in the vast majority of cases.
Only when the ingredient is combined with highly occlusive pigments or thick layers in extreme heat could it contribute to temporary congestion. Ensuring proper cleansing at the end of the day should eliminate that risk.
Summary
Bis-Hema Poly(Caprolactone Hexanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer is chiefly a film former that locks color in place, boosts water and rub resistance, smooths texture and can give a subtle lifting feel. It does this by spreading into a clear flexible net that adheres pigments and active particles while letting skin move comfortably.
The polymer is not as famous as older acrylates yet its use is steadily rising in long wear makeup, peel off masks, transfer-proof lip colors and next-gen nail lacquers thanks to its balance of strength and comfort.
Safety profiles show low irritation, negligible absorption and a minimal comedogenic rating so it is considered safe for regular cosmetic use. As with any new product a quick patch test on a small area is a smart habit to confirm personal compatibility.