What Is Bis-Hema Poly(Caprolactone/Pentaerythritol)/Ipdi Copolymer Succinate?
Bis-Hema Poly(Caprolactone/Pentaerythritol)/Ipdi Copolymer Succinate is a lab-crafted urethane polymer created to improve the performance of modern cosmetic formulas. Chemically, it begins with ε-caprolactone, a ring-opening monomer that forms a soft, flexible polyester when combined with the multi-functional alcohol pentaerythritol. This polyester is then linked with isophorone diisocyanate, a molecule that introduces strong urethane bonds. Finally, the chains are capped with HEMA, a common adhesion promoter, and lightly modified with succinic anhydride to add stability and compatibility with other ingredients.
Although versions of caprolactone-based polymers were explored for medical applications in the 1970s, their controlled flexibility and strength soon attracted cosmetic chemists looking for tougher yet comfortable film-formers. Over the past two decades the material gained popularity in nail care, long-wear makeup and specialty skin treatments, where it helps products stay put while feeling lightweight.
Today you will most often spot this copolymer in gel nail polishes, long-lasting mascaras, waterproof eyeliners, transfer-resistant foundations, flexible hair styling films and certain sheet masks that need a smooth cling to the skin.
Bis-Hema Poly(Caprolactone/Pentaerythritol)/Ipdi Copolymer Succinate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient is valued for one primary function in cosmetics which is binding, and that role brings several formulation benefits.
As a binder it creates a cohesive film that locks pigments, powders or active agents together so products adhere evenly and resist flaking or smudging. In nail coatings the polymer anchors color layers for chip resistance, while in makeup it helps prevent creasing and improves wear time. Its flexible nature allows the film to move with skin or nails, avoiding the tight, uncomfortable feel sometimes associated with older resins.
Who Can Use Bis-Hema Poly(Caprolactone/Pentaerythritol)/Ipdi Copolymer Succinate
This polymer is generally considered suitable for all skin types, including dry, oily, sensitive and mature, because it stays on the surface as a flexible film and does not disrupt the skin’s natural balance. Those with a known sensitivity to acrylate or urethane resins should proceed cautiously since the ingredient is chemically related to those families and could trigger a reaction in rare cases.
Because it is fully synthetic and contains no animal derived components, products featuring this copolymer are compatible with vegan and vegetarian lifestyles.
The large molecular size makes skin penetration unlikely, so current safety data do not flag it as a concern for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any skincare product past a doctor just to be on the safe side.
The ingredient does not cause photosensitivity and will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also stable in both water based and anhydrous formulas, so there are no special storage or usage constraints beyond normal product guidelines.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects and reactions to the topical application of Bis-Hema Poly(Caprolactone/Pentaerythritol)/Ipdi Copolymer Succinate can vary from person to person. The following is a list of potential side effects and interactions; they are uncommon when the ingredient is properly formulated.
- Mild skin redness or itching in individuals sensitive to acrylate or urethane resins
- Allergic contact dermatitis presenting as rash or swelling, especially after prolonged use in occlusive products like gel nail polish
- Eye irritation or watering if mascara or eyeliner containing the polymer flakes into the eye
- Brittleness or dryness of the nail plate if gel polish is removed aggressively or with harsh solvents
If you notice any persistent irritation stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
This copolymer sits on top of the skin as a flexible film and its large molecular size keeps it from slipping into pores where clogging happens. It contains no heavy oils or waxes that normally raise the risk of breakouts which is why the score is low rather than zero. A score of 1 reflects the slight chance that any film former can trap existing sebum or debris if a product is not removed well at the end of the day.
Suitable for acne-prone skin in most cases, as long as makeup or nail products containing the polymer are thoroughly cleansed before bed.
People who already find long-wear or waterproof formulas congesting should double cleanse to avoid build-up over time.
Summary
Bis-Hema Poly(Caprolactone/Pentaerythritol)/Ipdi Copolymer Succinate is mainly a binder that forms a smooth flexible film. By locking pigments and other particles together it improves wear time stops flaking and helps color stay vibrant. Its urethane links give strength while the caprolactone segments keep the film comfortable and bendy.
The polymer is popular in gel nail polish and long-wear eye or face makeup but you will not see it as often in everyday cleansers or lotions. When it is used, formulators appreciate its balance of toughness and light feel.
Current data show it is safe for all skin types with low risk of irritation or pore clogging. As with any new cosmetic it is smart to do a quick patch test when you first try a product containing this ingredient, just to be sure your skin agrees with it.