What Is Bis-Hema Poly(Propylene Glycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer?
Bis-HEMA Poly(Propylene Glycol Adipate)/IPDI Copolymer is a man-made polymer created for use on skin and nails. Chemically it belongs to the urethane family. To make it, manufacturers first link propylene glycol with adipic acid to form a soft, flexible polyester. This polyester then reacts with isophorone diisocyanate, a building block that adds strength. Last, the chain is capped with HEMA (2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) so the finished polymer can harden when exposed to light or air. The result is a clear, flexible film that sticks well to the surface it is applied to.
The ingredient appeared in the early 2000s when nail and skin chemists searched for lighter, longer-lasting coatings that could replace older heavy resins. Its balance of flexibility and durability quickly made it popular in professional gel nail systems, long-wear top coats and peel-off facial masks. You may also see it in certain long-lasting foundations, liquid lip colors and brow gels where a thin yet tough film is needed to keep pigments in place.
Bis-Hema Poly(Propylene Glycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
The copolymer acts primarily as a film former. Once the product is applied, it dries to create a breathable yet protective layer on skin or nails. This film helps lock pigments, shimmer and active ingredients where you want them, boosts wear time, resists smudging and can give a smooth glossy finish.
Who Can Use Bis-Hema Poly(Propylene Glycol Adipate)/Ipdi Copolymer
This film former is generally well tolerated by normal, oily, dry and combination skin. Because it sits on top of the surface rather than soaking in, it rarely clogs pores or upsets oil balance. Those with very sensitive or eczema-prone skin should watch for any feeling of tightness or flaking, as the protective film can occasionally accentuate dryness.
The polymer is fully synthetic and contains no animal-derived ingredients, so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. It is also often used in gel nail systems that are certified cruelty free.
Current data suggest that the molecule does not penetrate deeply or enter the bloodstream, so it is unlikely to pose a risk to women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. That said, this is not medical advice; anyone expecting or nursing should clear all personal care products with a qualified health professional.
Bis-HEMA Poly(Propylene Glycol Adipate)/IPDI Copolymer does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and has no known effect on melanin or the tanning response.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Bis-HEMA Poly(Propylene Glycol Adipate)/IPDI Copolymer vary from person to person. The issues listed below are possible but not common in products that are correctly formulated and cured.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness itching or burning, most often in very sensitive individuals
- Allergic contact dermatitis triggered by residual acrylate or isocyanate fragments
- Nail dryness or brittleness after frequent gel polish removal
- Eye irritation if uncured product accidentally gets into the eyes
If any of these effects occur stop using the product and seek advice from a medical professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5 — Bis-HEMA Poly(Propylene Glycol Adipate)/IPDI Copolymer is a large, inert molecule that rests on top of skin instead of sinking into pores, so it has very little potential to trap oil or debris. Its dry, plastic-like finish is the opposite of the greasy textures that usually cause breakouts. That makes it a low-risk choice for people who are prone to acne or blackheads. Keep in mind the overall formula matters: if the product pairs this copolymer with heavy oils the breakout risk can rise.
Summary
Bis-HEMA Poly(Propylene Glycol Adipate)/IPDI Copolymer is used mainly as a film former. Once applied it links together into a clear, flexible sheet that seals in pigments, boosts wear time and shields skin and nails from smudging or chipping. Its popularity is strongest in gel nail polishes, long wear makeup and peel-off masks, while everyday skincare lines use it less often.
Current research shows the ingredient is non-toxic, non-sensitizing for most users and does not build up in the body. Still, everyone’s skin is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product that features this polymer before adding it to your regular routine.