Bis-Hpma Poly(Caprolactone/1,4-Butanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Bis-Hpma Poly(Caprolactone/1,4-Butanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer?

Bis-Hpma Poly(Caprolactone/1,4-Butanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer is a man-made film-forming polymer used in modern skincare and makeup. Chemically, it belongs to the family of urethane polymers. It starts with two building blocks: epsilon-caprolactone, which is a ring-shaped molecule often sourced from plant-derived oils, and 1,4-butanediol, a small alcohol. These two are blended to form a soft, flexible pre-polymer. This pre-polymer is then reacted with isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) to create strong urethane links, adding durability. Finally, hydroxypropyl methacrylate (HPMA) caps the chain so the polymer can form a clear, even film when it dries on skin or hair.

The technology behind this ingredient grew out of research in the 1990s aimed at making breathable yet long-lasting coatings for medical devices. Formulators soon saw its potential in cosmetics because it could create thin, comfortable films without the stiff or sticky feel of older polymers. Today it appears in products where a smooth, flexible layer helps lock in active ingredients or improve wear time.

You are most likely to spot it in sheet masks, peel-off masks, hydrogel patches, long-wear foundations, BB creams, setting sprays, anti-aging serums, hair styling creams and certain water-resistant sunscreens.

Bis-Hpma Poly(Caprolactone/1,4-Butanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient serves one key purpose in beauty formulas.

As a film-forming agent, it spreads into a thin, invisible layer that dries smooth and flexible. This film helps active ingredients stay put on the skin longer, boosts the water resistance of makeup and sunscreen, reduces transfer onto clothing, adds a soft touch finish and can gently tighten the skin surface for a more polished look.

Who Can Use Bis-Hpma Poly(Caprolactone/1,4-Butanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer

This film-forming polymer is generally considered suitable for all skin types. Oily and combination skins appreciate its lightweight, non-greasy finish, while normal and dry skins benefit from the flexible seal it creates over moisturizers. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it well because the molecule is large and inert, though anyone prone to dermatitis should still watch for irritation when trying a new product.

The material is synthesized entirely from laboratory-made or plant-derived feedstocks and contains no animal by-products, making it acceptable for vegans and vegetarians so long as the finished formula is certified cruelty-free.

Because the polymer sits on the surface and is not readily absorbed, it is viewed as low risk for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice; expectant or nursing mothers should always run their full skincare lineup past a qualified healthcare provider to be safe.

Bis-Hpma Poly(Caprolactone/1,4-Butanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer does not increase photosensitivity and can be worn during daytime without making skin more prone to sunburn. There are no known interactions with common actives like retinoids, vitamin C or exfoliating acids, so it plays well in layered routines.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Individual responses to topical Bis-Hpma Poly(Caprolactone/1,4-Butanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer can vary. The issues listed below are possible but uncommon when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.

Transient skin redness or mild stinging in very sensitive individuals

Allergic contact dermatitis triggered by a reaction to residual monomers or additives

Eye irritation if the product is accidentally rubbed or drips into the eyes

Temporary clogged pores or dullness if extremely thick layers are applied repeatedly without proper cleansing

If any discomfort, persistent redness or swelling appears, discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

Bis-Hpma Poly(Caprolactone/1,4-Butanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer forms a light, breathable film that sits on top of the skin rather than soaking into pores. It is not oil based and has a large molecular size, so it is unlikely to block follicles. A rating of 1 reflects a very low but not zero chance of clogging when layered heavily or left on without proper cleansing.

Suitable for acne-prone users in most cases.

Because it creates an occlusive layer, pairing it with thorough nightly cleansing and noncomedogenic moisturizers helps keep pores clear.

Summary

Bis-Hpma Poly(Caprolactone/1,4-Butanediol)/Ipdi Copolymer is chiefly a film former. Once applied it dries into a flexible, transparent veil that anchors pigments, boosts water resistance, limits transfer and gently smooths the skin surface. This performance comes from its urethane backbone, which delivers strength, and its HPMA end groups, which let the polymer crosslink into an even film.

While not as famous as silicones or vinyl polymers, it has gained steady popularity in long-wear foundations, sheet masks and styling creams because it feels lighter and more comfortable than older film agents.

Safety studies place it in the low-risk category for irritation or sensitization. Still, skin can react unpredictably, so it is wise to patch test any new product that lists this polymer before full-face or body use.

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