Bis-Hpma Poly(Caprolactone/Neopentyl Glycol)/Ipdi Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Bis-Hpma Poly(Caprolactone/Neopentyl Glycol)/Ipdi Copolymer?

Bis-Hpma Poly(Caprolactone/Neopentyl Glycol)/Ipdi Copolymer is a man-made urethane polymer created for use on skin and hair. Chemically it is built from small building blocks: epsilon-caprolactone, neopentyl glycol, isophorone diisocyanate and hydroxypropyl methacrylate. When these parts are linked in a controlled series of reactions they form a long, flexible chain that behaves like a soft plastic film once it dries on the skin or hair surface.

The material grew out of research in the late 1990s and early 2000s, when cosmetic chemists were looking for light, breathable films to replace heavier oils and waxes. Urethane chemistry offered strength without stiffness so suppliers adapted methods already used in paint and medical coatings, tweaking them to meet cosmetic safety rules.

Production starts by reacting epsilon-caprolactone with neopentyl glycol, giving a pre-polymer that feels somewhat rubbery. This is then coupled with isophorone diisocyanate to lengthen the chain and introduce urethane links. Finally hydroxypropyl methacrylate caps the ends, locking the structure and improving compatibility with other beauty ingredients. The finished polymer is usually delivered to brands as a 30-50 % solution in a gentle solvent or in fine powder form.

You will most often spot this ingredient in long-wear makeup such as foundations and eyeliners, waterproof mascaras, transfer-resistant lip colors, sunscreens, leave-on hair serums, flexible hold styling sprays and certain sheet or peel-off masks. Its main purpose in all these formulas is to create a thin, invisible shield that keeps the active ingredients where they belong while letting skin and hair move naturally.

Bis-Hpma Poly(Caprolactone/Neopentyl Glycol)/Ipdi Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

The standout role of this polymer is as a film former. Once the product is applied it sets into a lightweight layer that helps makeup resist smudging, boosts water and sweat resistance in sunscreens, reduces frizz in hair products and supports peel-off or lift-off action in masks without a tight or sticky feel.

Who Can Use Bis-Hpma Poly(Caprolactone/Neopentyl Glycol)/Ipdi Copolymer?

This polymer is considered friendly for most skin and hair types because it sits on the surface rather than soaking deep into tissue. Normal, dry, combination and oily skin can all benefit from the breathable shield it forms. Sensitive skin usually tolerates it as well since it is non reactive and fragrance free, yet people prone to clogged pores may prefer light formulas because any film former can trap excess sebum if the overall product is too heavy.

The ingredient is fully synthetic with no animal sourced components so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

No studies have flagged special risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women. Absorption through intact skin is minimal which limits systemic exposure. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should still have a doctor review every skincare item they plan to use.

Bis-Hpma Poly(Caprolactone/Neopentyl Glycol)/Ipdi Copolymer does not absorb UV light so it is not known to cause photosensitivity. It also plays well with common actives such as vitamin C, retinoids and acids because it acts mainly as a physical film rather than a reactive chemical.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Bis-Hpma Poly(Caprolactone/Neopentyl Glycol)/Ipdi Copolymer vary from person to person. The points below list potential effects only and most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

Contact irritation – very rare, usually presents as mild redness or itching if the skin barrier is already compromised

Follicular occlusion – heavy formulations containing the polymer can, on acne prone skin, trap oil and debris leading to whiteheads or blackheads

Allergic sensitization – an uncommon immune response to trace monomer residues left from manufacturing

If any of these reactions occur discontinue use and seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

This low score reflects the ingredient’s large molecular size and non-oily character, which make it unlikely to block pores on its own. It sits on the surface as a breathable film and is typically used at modest levels. Only in very rich or occlusive formulas can it indirectly contribute to congestion by trapping existing oil underneath.

Overall it is usually a safe pick for acne-prone skin.

As with any film former, the final product’s full ingredient mix and texture matter more than the polymer alone when judging breakout potential.

Summary

Bis-Hpma Poly(Caprolactone/Neopentyl Glycol)/Ipdi Copolymer is a modern film former that creates a light, flexible shield helping makeup stay put, hair frizz stay down and sunscreen resist water and sweat. It does this by drying into a soft plastic-like layer that bends with skin and hair rather than cracking.

While not a household name like silicones, it is gaining traction in long-wear foundations, waterproof mascaras and peel-off masks where brands want durability without a heavy feel.

Current data shows it is very safe, with low irritation and minimal pore-clogging risk. Still, every skin is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product that features this polymer, especially if your skin is sensitive or breakout-prone.

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