What Is Bis-Hydroxyethyl Aminoethyl Maleated Soybean Oil?
Bis-Hydroxyethyl Aminoethyl Maleated Soybean Oil is a plant-derived ingredient created when soybean oil is first reacted with maleic anhydride to add extra acid groups, then neutralised with triethanolamine to form a water-compatible, nitrogen-containing molecule that behaves like a mild surfactant.
Soybean oil has long been valued for its skin-friendly fatty acids, but in the late twentieth century formulators sought to upgrade it for modern water-based products. By attaching maleic anhydride and then triethanolamine they produced a material that could mix oil and water, paving the way for its use in cleansers and lotions.
The process starts with refined soybean oil that is heated with maleic anhydride under controlled temperatures. Once the reaction is complete, the maleated oil is cooled and carefully blended with triethanolamine until the desired pH is reached. The result is an amber, viscous liquid that disperses in water and remains stable across a wide pH range, making it easy to add during the cool-down phase of cosmetic production.
You will most often find Bis-Hydroxyethyl Aminoethyl Maleated Soybean Oil in facial cleansers, micellar waters, hydrating toners, creamy body washes, lightweight moisturisers and hair masks where gentle cleansing and emulsifying power is needed without stripping the skin or hair.
Bis-Hydroxyethyl Aminoethyl Maleated Soybean Oil’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This versatile ingredient offers practical benefits that help formulas look, feel and perform better
- Cleansing: its balanced polar and non-polar structure allows it to attract both water and oil, so it lifts away makeup, excess sebum and daily grime while staying mild and non-drying
- Emulsifying: it bridges oil and water phases, helping creams and lotions stay evenly blended which improves texture, stability and shelf life while giving products a smooth spreadable feel
Who Can Use Bis-Hydroxyethyl Aminoethyl Maleated Soybean Oil
This ingredient is generally well tolerated by all skin types. Its mild surfactant action is gentle enough for dry or sensitive complexions yet effective at balancing oil for combination and oily skin. People with a confirmed soy allergy should avoid it because it is derived from soybean oil and residual allergenic proteins, while unlikely, could be present in trace amounts.
Bis-Hydroxyethyl Aminoethyl Maleated Soybean Oil is plant based so it fits vegan and vegetarian lifestyles. No animal materials or by-products are used at any stage of manufacture.
Current safety data show no specific concerns for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. As with any new cosmetic ingredient this is not medical advice and expectant or nursing mothers should check with their doctor before adding new products to their routine.
The molecule does not increase skin sensitivity to sunlight and there are no known issues with photosensitivity.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Side effects from topical use of Bis-Hydroxyethyl Aminoethyl Maleated Soybean Oil vary from person to person. The issues listed below are potential reactions only and most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a finished product.
- Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching, especially on very reactive skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals with a soy allergy
- Temporary eye stinging if the formula accidentally gets into the eyes
- Rarely, follicular congestion if used in a very rich leave-on product on acne-prone skin
If you experience any of these reactions stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Although the ingredient starts life as soybean oil, chemical maleation and neutralisation transform it into a water-compatible surfactant that rinses away easily instead of sitting on the skin like a heavy lipid. Its molecule is large enough to resist entering pores yet polar enough to disperse in water, so it has little tendency to clog follicles. This makes it generally suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in the low concentrations found in cleansers, toners or lightweight creams. Only in very rich leave-on formulas could it pose a minor congestion risk, which is why the score is not a perfect zero.
Formulation context matters: a rinse-off cleanser containing this ingredient will feel virtually non-comedogenic, whereas a thick balm with a high percentage could feel heavier. Always look at the whole ingredient list and product type when judging pore-clogging potential.
Summary
Bis-Hydroxyethyl Aminoethyl Maleated Soybean Oil works as a gentle cleanser and an emulsifier. Its balanced oil-loving and water-loving sections grab dirt and makeup while keeping oils and water phases blended, giving products a smooth stable texture. Because it is a niche plant-derived surfactant, it is not as famous as ingredients like coco-glucoside yet formulators who need mildness and sustainability appreciate its versatility.
Current studies and decades of use show it to be low risk for irritation or sensitisation in most people, with the main caution being possible reactions in those allergic to soy. As with any new cosmetic ingredient it is wise to do a quick patch test when trying a product that contains it so you can spot any personal sensitivities early.