What Is Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Behenate?
Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Behenate is a silicone-based ester created when bis-hydroxypropyl dimethicone reacts with behenic acid, a fatty acid commonly sourced from plants such as rapeseed and peanut. The result is a hybrid molecule that combines the smooth glide of silicones with the rich, cushiony feel of long-chain fatty acids.
Silicone chemistry took off in the mid-20th century as formulators searched for lighter, silkier alternatives to mineral oil. Over time scientists learned to tweak basic silicone backbones with fatty acids to improve spreadability and moisture retention. Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Behenate emerged from this innovation cycle and started appearing in cosmetic ingredient catalogs in the early 2000s, quickly gaining favor for its velvety skin feel.
Manufacturing involves two main steps. First, silicone polymers are modified with hydroxypropyl groups to make them more reactive. Next, these modified silicones are esterified with behenic acid under heat and controlled pH, forming a stable bond that resists breakdown in finished products.
Because it marries light texture with lasting softness, the ingredient is a frequent pick for moisturizers, anti-aging creams, primers, liquid foundations, lip balms, sunscreens, leave-in hair conditioners and rinse-off masks. In most formulas it appears at low to moderate levels to enhance skin feel without adding greasiness.
Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Behenate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient serves one primary purpose in personal care formulas.
As an emollient it fills in microscopic gaps on the skin or hair surface, creating a smooth even film that feels silky to the touch. This film helps soften rough patches, reduces transepidermal water loss and improves the spreadability of other ingredients so products apply more evenly and feel more luxurious.
Who Can Use Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Behenate
This silky silicone ester is generally well tolerated by all skin types. Dry and mature skin benefit most from its ability to seal in moisture while sensitive or reactive skin often appreciates its gentle non-sensitising nature. Those with very oily or acne-prone skin might find rich formulas containing high levels of the ingredient feel heavy so lighter products or lower use levels are preferable.
Because behenic acid used in its manufacture is typically sourced from plants such as rapeseed and peanuts and the silicone portion is synthetic the ingredient itself is suitable for vegetarians and vegans. Always verify that the finished cosmetic does not include other animal-derived additives if strict adherence is required.
Current safety data show no problems for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is applied topically. It is not absorbed into the bloodstream to any meaningful extent. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should discuss new skincare products with a healthcare professional to be on the safe side.
Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Behenate is chemically stable and does not cause photosensitivity so there is no added risk of sunburn or discoloration when using it during daytime. It also plays well with most other cosmetic ingredients and does not interfere with actives such as retinol or vitamin C.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Behenate vary from person to person. The points below outline potential side effects which are uncommon when the ingredient is used at typical cosmetic levels.
- Mild transient redness or irritation in extremely sensitive skin
- Clogged pores or minor breakouts if a heavy formula is layered on very oily acne-prone skin
- Rare allergic contact dermatitis presenting as itching or small bumps
- Folliculitis on scalp or body when thick leave-on products trap sweat and bacteria
If you experience any of these issues discontinue use and seek advice from a qualified healthcare provider or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Behenate earns a low score because its large, inert molecules sit on the surface rather than seeping into pores, allowing skin to breathe and sebum to flow normally. While extremely heavy formulas that pair it with dense waxes or butters could tip the scale, the ingredient on its own is unlikely to trigger congestion.
Most people prone to acne or frequent breakouts can use products containing this silicone ester without noticeable pore clogging.
If overall formulation weight is a concern, opt for lighter gels or lotions where this ingredient appears lower on the label.
Summary
Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Behenate acts as an emollient, filling in tiny surface gaps to leave skin or hair silky, flexible and better protected against moisture loss. The silicone side supplies slip while the behenic acid side adds cushioning, so products glide on smoothly and feel plush once absorbed.
Though not a headline star, its reputation for delivering luxurious texture keeps it popping up in moisturizers, primers, lip balms and sunscreens especially in brands that prize a refined skin feel.
Current research shows low risk of irritation, allergy or pore clogging, so it is considered safe for most users. Still, skin is personal so patch test any new product containing this ingredient to ensure it agrees with you.