Bis-Lauryl Cocaminopropylamine/Hdi/Peg-100 Copolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Bis-Lauryl Cocaminopropylamine/Hdi/Peg-100 Copolymer?

Bis-Lauryl Cocaminopropylamine/HDI/PEG-100 Copolymer is a man-made ingredient created by linking together pieces of coconut-derived aminopropylamine, PEG-100, and hexamethylene diisocyanate, then finishing the chain with lauryl alcohol. The result is a large, flexible molecule called a copolymer that behaves in a predictable way when mixed into creams and gels.

Chemists first explored this type of copolymer in the 1990s while looking for gentler ways to thicken personal care products without leaving a heavy feel. Because coconut oil was already prized for its skin-friendly profile, they used its lauryl building blocks as a starting point. Over time the ingredient earned a spot in commercial formulas thanks to its good safety record and the smooth texture it gives products.

Production starts with separating fatty acids from coconut oil, converting part of them into cocoaminopropylamine, and reacting that with PEG-100 and hexamethylene diisocyanate under controlled heat. Lauryl alcohol is added at the final step to cap the chain and keep it stable. The finished copolymer is purified, dried, and shipped as a waxy solid or viscous liquid that dissolves easily in standard cosmetic bases.

You will most often spot Bis-Lauryl Cocaminopropylamine/HDI/PEG-100 Copolymer in moisturizers, leave-on hair conditioners, face masks, sunscreens, shave creams, and lightweight serums where brands want a silky glide without greasy residue.

Bis-Lauryl Cocaminopropylamine/Hdi/Peg-100 Copolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient plays one clear yet important role in beauty formulas.

As a viscosity controlling agent it helps set the thickness of a product so it feels just right when you squeeze, scoop, or pump it. A small dose can turn a runny lotion into a plush cream or give a clear gel enough body to stay put on skin or hair. Because the copolymer is compatible with both oils and water it keeps the texture stable over time, preventing separation and making sure every use feels the same from the first application to the last.

Who Can Use Bis-Lauryl Cocaminopropylamine/Hdi/Peg-100 Copolymer

This thickening agent is considered gentle enough for dry, oily, combination and sensitive skin because it has no active effect on pores or cell turnover, it simply fine-tunes texture. People prone to redness or easily clogged pores generally tolerate it well, as the molecule sits on the surface and is rinsed or wiped away with normal cleansing.

Bis-Lauryl Cocaminopropylamine/HDI/PEG-100 Copolymer is synthesized from coconut fatty acids and petrochemical-derived PEG without the use of animal by-products so it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

No studies have flagged special risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when this ingredient is used topically in cosmetics. That said this information is educational only and anyone expecting or nursing should run every new product past a qualified healthcare provider to be safe.

The copolymer does not absorb UV light or make skin more sensitive to sunlight so it is not linked to photosensitivity. It is also fragrance-free and non-volatile which helps minimize airborne irritation for people with reactive lungs.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Bis-Lauryl Cocaminopropylamine/HDI/PEG-100 Copolymer vary from person to person. The effects listed below are only potential outcomes and are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is properly formulated.

  • Mild skin irritation such as temporary redness or itching on very reactive skin
  • Contact dermatitis in individuals already allergic to amine or PEG compounds
  • Eye irritation if a product containing the copolymer accidentally gets into the eyes
  • Build-up on hair shafts leading to a weighed-down feel when used daily in leave-on conditioners without regular shampooing

If any discomfort, rash or unexpected reaction develops stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 out of 5

This low score reflects the ingredient’s large polymer size, which keeps it sitting on the surface rather than sinking into pores. It brings almost no extra oil to the party and is not known to form sticky films that trap debris. For most people prone to acne or breakouts, it is considered a safe choice.

One point is given instead of zero because any film-forming agent can, in theory, hold sweat or dead cells on skin if cleansing is skipped, but real-world reports of clogging are rare.

Summary

Bis-Lauryl Cocaminopropylamine/HDI/PEG-100 Copolymer is mainly a texture helper. It controls viscosity by linking water and oil phases into a smooth network so lotions feel creamier, gels stay put and emulsions do not separate over time. Brands like it because a tiny amount delivers a plush feel without heaviness, though it is still a niche thickener compared with classics like carbomer.

Current safety data shows very low risk of irritation, sensitization or pore blockage when used as directed. As with any new skincare or haircare product, try a small patch first to be on the safe side.

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