Bis(Trioctyldodecyl Citryl) Dilinoleate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 23, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Bis(Trioctyldodecyl Citryl) Dilinoleate?

Bis(Trioctyldodecyl Citryl) Dilinoleate is a lab made ingredient formed when trioctyldodecyl citrate reacts with dilinoleic acid. Both starting materials come from plant oils known for their high fatty acid content. When chemists blend them under controlled heat and pressure they create a smooth wax-like liquid that is easy to spread and highly stable.

The ingredient first showed up in cosmetic research in the early 2000s as companies searched for richer plant-based alternatives to mineral oil. Its silky feel and long shelf life quickly attracted formulators. Today it appears in face creams, overnight masks, lip balms, body lotions, anti-aging serums and makeup primers where a soft touch and lasting moisture are desired.

Bis(Trioctyldodecyl Citryl) Dilinoleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In skin care formulas Bis(Trioctyldodecyl Citryl) Dilinoleate serves two main roles that improve how a product looks, feels and performs:

  • Skin conditioning – It forms a light protective layer on the skin surface that helps trap water, leaving skin feeling smooth and comfortable. This can reduce rough patches and give a healthier appearance.
  • Emollient – Its fatty structure fills in tiny gaps between skin cells which softens and lubricates the skin. This creates a velvety finish, boosts spreadability of the product and enhances the formula’s richness without a heavy or greasy feel.

Who Can Use Bis(Trioctyldodecyl Citryl) Dilinoleate

This emollient suits most skin types including normal, dry and mature skin that crave extra softness. Its lightweight slip also works for combination skin, though those with very oily or acne-prone complexions might prefer to use it sparingly since richer lipids can sometimes feel heavy on already oily areas.

The ingredient is made from plant-derived fatty acids and contains no animal by-products so it is generally considered suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

No specific warnings exist for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, and the ingredient is not known to penetrate deeply enough to reach the bloodstream in meaningful amounts. Still this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should show the full ingredient list of any product to a qualified doctor before use just to be safe.

Bis(Trioctyldodecyl Citryl) Dilinoleate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight so it is not classed as photosensitising. Standard daytime sun protection habits remain the same as with any other moisturiser.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical Bis(Trioctyldodecyl Citryl) Dilinoleate vary from person to person. The points below list potential reactions only and are not likely to reflect the average experience when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.

  • Mild redness or stinging in very sensitive skin
  • Temporary clogged pores or breakouts in individuals highly prone to acne
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis marked by itching, rash or swelling
  • Greasy after-feel if applied too heavily on naturally oily areas

If any negative reaction occurs stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2 / 5

Bis(Trioctyldodecyl Citryl) Dilinoleate is a large ester molecule that sits mostly on the skin surface. Its bulky structure makes it less likely to slip deep into pores compared with smaller pure oils yet it is still a rich lipid. This balance places it in the low-to-moderate range for clogging potential.

Because the rating is a 2 most people prone to acne can use it in lightweight formulas without major concern, though very oily or congested skin may want to limit use in leave-on products.

Formulation matters: when paired with absorbent ingredients or used at low levels its risk of pore blockage drops even further.

Summary

Bis(Trioctyldodecyl Citryl) Dilinoleate conditions and softens skin by forming a thin breathable film that traps water and smooths rough spots. Its fatty backbone fills gaps between skin cells giving creams a silky glide while avoiding a heavy greasy feel.

It is not a headline star like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide yet it shows up in a steady stream of moisturizers lip balms and makeup primers because it makes formulas feel luxe and boosts long-term moisture without relying on mineral oil.

Current safety data and user reports show it is well tolerated with only rare irritation or pore issues. As with any new product a quick patch test on a small area is a smart step to confirm personal comfort before full-face use.

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