What Is Bismuth Subgallate?
Bismuth subgallate is a coordination compound made by combining bismuth, a silvery metal, with gallic acid, a plant-derived polyphenol found in oak galls and tea leaves. The resulting powder is a pale yellow-green solid that is practically insoluble in water, making it stable when blended into creams and lotions. First prepared in the late 1800s, it earned a place in early face powders thanks to its smooth texture and gentle feel on skin. Today manufacturers produce it by reacting basic bismuth nitrate with purified gallic acid under controlled pH, then washing and drying the precipitate to obtain a fine cosmetic-grade powder.
Because it offers a soft focus finish and helps condition the skin, bismuth subgallate appears in pressed powders, loose mineral foundations, finishing veils, color-correcting concealers, soothing masks and certain anti-aging creams where a velvet skin feel is desired.
Bismuth Subgallate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In cosmetic formulas bismuth subgallate serves one main purpose: skin conditioning. It forms a light, breathable layer on the surface that leaves skin feeling smooth and comfortable while helping products glide on evenly. This conditioning effect can reduce dryness and provide a more refined appearance, making makeup and skincare items feel luxurious during wear.
Who Can Use Bismuth Subgallate
Bismuth subgallate is gentle enough for most skin types including normal, dry, combination, oily and even sensitive skin because it sits on the surface and is not chemically reactive. People with very reactive or metal-allergic skin might still want to steer clear since bismuth compounds can occasionally trigger redness or itching in those groups.
The ingredient is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. It is mined from mineral ores and combined with plant-based gallic acid so it contains no animal-derived substances. As always, check whether the finished brand tests on animals if that matters to you.
Pregnant or breastfeeding women are generally considered able to use products containing bismuth subgallate because absorption through intact skin is minimal. This is not medical advice though, and anyone expecting or nursing should run new skincare past their doctor just to be safe.
Bismuth subgallate does not cause photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also has no known interactions with common over-the-counter actives like retinol or glycolic acid, letting it slot easily into most routines.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical bismuth subgallate differ from person to person. The effects listed below are possible but uncommon when the ingredient is properly formulated and used as directed.
- Mild skin irritation—temporary redness stinging or itching, usually in very sensitive skin
- Contact dermatitis—rash or swelling in individuals allergic to bismuth or gallic acid derivatives
- Pore congestion—rare clogging or tiny bumps if heavy powders build up on skin not thoroughly cleansed
- Skin discoloration—occasional gray or yellow tint where product accumulates, typically washes off
- Eye irritation—watering or burning if loose powder gets into the eyes
If you experience any of these issues stop use immediately and seek advice from a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 (very low)
Bismuth subgallate is an inert mineral powder that tends to sit loosely on the surface rather than melting into pores. Its particles are fairly large and almost insoluble in oils, so they have little chance of plugging follicles. A rating of 1 reflects this minimal risk while acknowledging that, in very heavy layers or if not washed off, any powder can mix with sweat and sebum and form minor blockages.
Because the likelihood of clogging is low, most people who are prone to acne or breakouts can usually use products containing bismuth subgallate without trouble.
If you use dense pressed powders or wear the ingredient daily, thorough cleansing at night will further reduce the chance of buildup.
Summary
Bismuth subgallate mainly acts as a skin-conditioning agent that leaves a soft smooth feel and helps makeup glide on evenly. It accomplishes this by forming a light breathable film that blurs texture and reduces dryness.
Although it was popular in early face powders, today it appears in a smaller number of mineral foundations, finishing veils and certain soothing masks, so it is considered a niche rather than mainstream ingredient.
Overall safety is good. It is non-reactive, vegan friendly and rarely causes irritation. Still, everyone’s skin is different so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains bismuth subgallate before full use.