C12-15 Alketh-9 Hydrogenated Tallowate: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
Share:
Inside this article:

All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is C12-15 Alketh-9 Hydrogenated Tallowate?

C12-15 Alketh-9 Hydrogenated Tallowate is a specialty ingredient created by reacting ethoxylated C12-15 fatty alcohols with hydrogenated tallow fatty acids to form an ester. The result is a waxy, skin-friendly material that melts easily on contact with skin. The fatty acids come from rendered animal fat that has been purified and hydrogenated, while the C12-15 alcohols are usually sourced from coconut or palm kernels. This combination gives the ingredient a balanced profile of saturated and unsaturated chains, which translates to a soft, cushiony feel in finished formulas.

The idea of blending tallow-derived acids with synthetic alcohols took off in the late twentieth century when formulators started looking for more stable, non-greasy emollients that could mimic natural skin lipids. Hydrogenation made the tallow acids resistant to oxidation, extending shelf life and making them suitable for modern cosmetic manufacturing. The “Alketh-9” portion refers to the average of nine ethylene oxide units added to the alcohol backbone, which improves the ingredient’s ability to spread and mix with both oils and water.

Production involves three key steps: first the C12-15 alcohols are ethoxylated to reach the desired nine EO units, then the hydrogenated tallow acids are prepared under high temperature to remove impurities, and finally the two components are esterified together in the presence of a catalyst. After purification, the finished material appears as a soft solid or thick paste that melts quickly when warmed.

You will most often see C12-15 Alketh-9 Hydrogenated Tallowate in moisturizers, body lotions, hand creams, night masks, rich facial balms, lip care, makeup primers and some hair conditioners where a velvety after-feel is desired. It is prized for giving products a plush slip without feeling heavy or sticky.

C12-15 Alketh-9 Hydrogenated Tallowate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient serves one main purpose in skincare and beauty products.

As an emollient it fills in the tiny gaps between skin cells, creating a smooth surface that feels soft and supple. By forming a light protective layer it helps reduce moisture loss, leaving skin better hydrated and more comfortable. Its semi-solid texture also thickens creams slightly, improving spreadability so the formula glides on evenly.

Who Can Use C12-15 Alketh-9 Hydrogenated Tallowate

Most skin types can tolerate this emollient well. It suits dry, normal and combination skin because it helps seal in moisture without leaving a heavy residue. Oily or acne-prone skin may find it slightly occlusive if used in high concentrations, so lighter formulations are preferable for those concerns.

The ingredient is derived in part from hydrogenated tallow, an animal by-product, so it is not suitable for vegans or strict vegetarians. Although some manufacturers offer plant-based alternatives with similar names, anyone avoiding animal-sourced ingredients should verify the supply chain before purchase.

Current data show no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the ingredient is applied topically in cosmetic amounts. This is not medical advice; those who are pregnant or nursing should discuss any new skincare product with their healthcare provider to be completely safe.

C12-15 Alketh-9 Hydrogenated Tallowate does not induce photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also free of fragrance and colorants, making it a reasonable option for people sensitive to those additives.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Individual responses to C12-15 Alketh-9 Hydrogenated Tallowate can vary. The following is a list of potential side effects that may occur, though most users will not experience them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild skin irritation or redness in very sensitive individuals
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in the rare case of sensitivity to animal-derived fatty acids
  • Potential pore clogging or comedones in those highly prone to acne if the product is overly rich
  • Itchiness or discomfort if applied to broken or compromised skin

If you notice any of these reactions stop using the product immediately and seek advice from a qualified health professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 2 out of 5. C12-15 Alketh-9 Hydrogenated Tallowate is an esterified, partially ethoxylated fat that melts on contact with skin and spreads well, so it is less likely to form a dense, pore-blocking film than straight tallow or heavy plant butters. That said, it still carries saturated fatty acid chains that can sit on the surface if used in a rich formula which explains the slight bump in score. In most leave-on products at typical use levels it should be tolerated by combination and normal skin but very oily or highly congested skin might notice occasional clogging. Overall it is generally acceptable for those prone to breakouts if used in lightweight formulations.

Like many semi-solid emollients its comedogenicity depends heavily on the total oil phase of the product, how occlusive the rest of the formula is and how thoroughly the user cleanses at night.

Summary

C12-15 Alketh-9 Hydrogenated Tallowate is an emollient that fills micro-gaps between skin cells, softens rough patches and slows water loss by laying down a thin, cushiony coating. Its mix of hydrogenated tallow acids and ethoxylated C12-15 alcohols gives it a melt-on-skin feel that spreads easily without leaving a heavy film, which also lets it thicken creams and improve slip.

It enjoys modest popularity in moisturizers, balms and lip care but its animal origin means many vegan or clean-label brands skip it, opting for plant-based substitutes instead.

Current safety data show it is non-sensitizing for most users, stable and unlikely to cause serious issues when used at cosmetic concentrations. As with any new ingredient it is smart to do a quick patch test when trying a product that contains it, especially if you have reactive or acne-prone skin.

Was this article helpful?
More from Glooshi:
ADVERTISEMENT
Get all our top headlines in beauty.
Delivered right to your inbox each week. Zero spam, all goodness, opt-out at anytime.
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Get the latest beauty news, top product recommendations & brand-exclusive discount codes direct to your inbox.
Send good feedback:

All feedback is greatly appreciated, anonymous, and will be used to improve the quality of our articles.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Send bad feedback:

All feedback is greatly appreciated, anonymous, and will be used to improve the quality of our articles.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Search