C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside?

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside is a plant based surfactant made by joining natural glucose with fatty alcohols that have 12 to 20 carbon atoms. The glucose usually comes from corn or sugar cane while the fatty alcohols are most often taken from coconut or palm oil. Chemists combine the two in a simple heat driven reaction that does not need strong acids or solvents, giving a biodegradable ingredient that fits well with green beauty goals.

Gentle sugar-based cleansers began to gain notice in the early 1990s when brands started looking for options that would not strip skin or harm the environment. C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside stood out because it cleans well yet feels mild even on sensitive skin. Today it is a common helper in a wide range of rinse-off and leave-on products.

You will spot it in facial cleansers, body washes, shampoos, baby products, micellar waters, makeup removers, sunscreens, lotions, creams and serums where it either lifts away dirt or keeps oil and water blended.

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient plays two main roles in beauty formulas

  • Cleansing: Its sugar head and oily tail let it grab onto dirt and excess oil so they can be rinsed off with water. Because the molecule is quite large and balanced it tends to be milder than sulfate surfactants which helps reduce dryness and tightness after washing.
  • Emulsifying: It acts like a bridge between water and oil, keeping lotions, creams and sunscreens smooth and uniform. A stable emulsion feels nicer on the skin, spreads more evenly and gives each active ingredient a better chance to do its job.

Who Can Use C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside is mild enough for all skin types including sensitive, dry, oily and combination skin because it cleans without stripping the natural barrier. People with conditions such as eczema or rosacea often tolerate it better than harsher surfactants since it has a low irritation profile.

The ingredient is made from plant sugars and plant derived fatty alcohols so it suits both vegans and vegetarians. No animal by-products are used in its manufacture and it is commonly sourced from suppliers that avoid animal testing.

Pregnant and breastfeeding women can generally use products containing C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside as it sits on the surface of the skin and is not known to absorb systemically. This is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should ask a doctor before starting a new skincare product just to be safe.

The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It is also gentle enough for daily use in baby products, men’s grooming lines and color treated hair formulas.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside differ from person to person. The points below list potential side effects that could occur, though they are unlikely for most users when the ingredient is properly formulated.

  • Mild eye irritation if a high-foam cleanser accidentally gets into the eyes
  • Rare cases of allergic contact dermatitis leading to redness itching or small bumps
  • Transient dryness or tightness if used in a product with a very high surfactant load
  • Scalp or skin redness in extremely sensitive individuals

If any of these effects appear stop using the product and seek advice from a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside is classed as a very low risk for clogged pores because it is highly water soluble, leaves no oily film and is typically used at low concentrations. The large sugar based molecule prefers water over skin oil so it rinses away cleanly instead of lingering inside pores.

That makes it suitable for acne prone or breakout prone skin in most formulas.

Since the ingredient is often paired with other surfactants or oils, the overall pore clogging potential of a finished product will still depend on the full recipe.

Summary

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside is a plant derived surfactant that cleans skin and hair by surrounding dirt and oil then lifting them away with water. It also acts as an emulsifier, keeping water and oil mixed so creams feel smooth and stable. Both jobs rely on its unique structure: a glucose head that loves water and a fatty tail that grabs oil.

The ingredient is popular in green and sensitive skin lines yet you will also find it in mainstream shampoos, micellar waters and sunscreens because formulators appreciate its mildness and versatility.

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside is considered safe for daily use with a low risk of irritation or pore blockage, but every person’s skin is different so do a quick patch test when trying any new product just to be safe.

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