C20-40 Alketh-40: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is C20-40 Alketh-40?

C20-40 Alketh-40 is a non-ionic surfactant made by reacting long-chain synthetic alcohols that fall between 20 and 40 carbon atoms with about 40 units of ethylene oxide. The starting alcohols can be sourced from petroleum fractions or plant-based oils, but the final ingredient is fully man-made and highly purified. This ethoxylation process creates a molecule that loves both oil and water, which is why it performs so well in many personal care formulas.

The ingredient first gained traction in the late 1950s as cosmetic chemists looked for gentle alternatives to soap that could still lift dirt and help mix oily ingredients into watery bases. Over time its safety record and versatility kept it in regular use, and today you can spot it in facial cleansers, micellar waters, makeup removers, exfoliating masks, shampoos, conditioners, lotions, sunscreens, serums and anti-aging creams.

C20-40 Alketh-40’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In everyday products C20-40 Alketh-40 plays two main roles that boost a formula’s performance and feel:

  • Cleansing – loosens and lifts dirt, sweat and excess oil so they can be rinsed away without stripping skin or hair
  • Solubilizing – helps disperse oils, fragrances and active ingredients evenly in water-based formulas which improves stability, clarity and user experience

Who Can Use C20-40 Alketh-40

This surfactant is considered gentle enough for most skin types including normal, oily, combination and even sensitive skin because it is non-ionic and has a low tendency to strip natural lipids. Very dry or compromised skin might prefer formulas where it is paired with richer emollients to avoid any feeling of tightness.

C20-40 Alketh-40 is synthetic and does not contain animal-derived materials so it is generally suitable for both vegans and vegetarians as long as the finished product is certified cruelty-free.

The ingredient has no known hormonal activity so it is not automatically ruled out during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. That said this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run any skincare product past a qualified doctor before use just to be safe.

C20-40 Alketh-40 is not known to increase photosensitivity so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. Of course daily sunscreen is still a smart habit no matter what surfactant a product uses.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical C20-40 Alketh-40 can vary from person to person. The following points list potential side effects only and most users will not experience them when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.

  • Mild skin irritation such as redness or itching
  • Temporary stinging on very dry or broken skin
  • Eye irritation if the product accidentally gets into the eyes
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to polyethylene glycol compounds
  • Increased dryness if used in a high-foaming cleanser without adequate moisturizers

If you notice any of these issues stop using the product and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist for guidance.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

C20-40 Alketh-40 is a water-soluble non-ionic surfactant that does not leave an oily film on skin, so it has a very low tendency to block pores. Its large molecular size and rinsability further reduce the chance of buildup that could trap sebum or dead cells. For these reasons most formulators consider it practically non-comedogenic.

Because the risk of pore clogging is minimal this ingredient is generally suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.

One thing to note is that the overall comedogenicity of a finished product depends on the full ingredient mix and how well the cleanser or lotion is removed from skin.

Summary

C20-40 Alketh-40 acts as a mild cleanser and a reliable solubilizer. Its dual love of water and oil lets it lift dirt then blend oils fragrances and actives into clear stable formulas, giving products a smoother feel and better performance.

While not as famous as household names like sodium laureth sulfate this surfactant still shows up in plenty of face washes micellar waters and leave-on treatments because chemists trust its balance of gentleness and efficiency.

Safety data over decades shows a low risk of irritation or sensitization when used at typical cosmetic levels, but every skin is unique so it is wise to patch test any new product that contains it before full use.

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