What Is C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester?
C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester is created when pentaerythritol, a small sugar-like alcohol, is reacted with a blend of long-chain fatty acids that range in length from 23 to 43 carbon atoms. The result is a mild, oil-like ester that is stable and resistant to breaking down when exposed to air, light or heat.
This ingredient first appeared in specialty skin care during the early 2000s as formulators searched for plant-derived alternatives to mineral oil and silicone. By linking pentaerythritol with naturally sourced fatty acids, chemists produced a soft, nourishing liquid that could add slip and protective feel without clogging pores.
The manufacturing process usually begins with fatty acids harvested from vegetable oils such as rapeseed or sunflower. These acids are purified then combined with pentaerythritol under controlled heat and with a catalyst to form the tetraester. After purification and quality checks the finished ingredient is a clear to pale yellow liquid that blends easily with other oils and waxes.
Because of its sensory profile and versatility you will find C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester in rich moisturizers, overnight masks, lip balms, body butters, cream foundations, sunscreen lotions and hair-smoothing serums.
C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
Formulators reach for this ester because it does more than one job in a single drop:
- Binding: Helps keep pigments, powders and other particles evenly dispersed so the formula stays uniform from the first use to the last
- Film Forming: Leaves a thin flexible layer on skin or hair that locks in moisture and improves wear time for makeup or sunscreen
- Skin Conditioning: Softens and smooths the surface giving skin a supple, well-cared-for feel
- Emollient: Adds immediate silkiness and reduces rough patches making products feel richer without being greasy
- Viscosity Controlling: Adjusts thickness so creams are neither too runny nor too stiff ensuring an easy, even spread
Who Can Use C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester
C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester suits most skin types. Its silky finish comforts dry or mature skin while the light, breathable film tends not to overwhelm normal or combination skin. Oily or acne-prone users generally tolerate it well because the molecule is large enough to sit on top of pores rather than sink in and block them, though very oily skin might prefer it in lighter formulations such as lotions or serums.
The ingredient is created from vegetable oils and pentaerythritol so it contains no animal-derived matter, making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
No research flags this ester as problematic for pregnant or breastfeeding women. It is considered a stable, inert emollient that does not penetrate deeply or act hormonally. Still, this is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run their entire routine past a qualified healthcare provider for personal guidance.
C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester does not induce photosensitivity and can safely be worn during daytime, including under sunscreen. It is also fragrance-free and carries no added dyes, which further reduces the likelihood of irritation for sensitive users.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester differ from person to person. The points below outline potential issues, yet most people will not notice any of them when the ingredient is used correctly in a well-formulated product.
- Mild redness or irritation in individuals with very reactive skin
- Temporary clogged pores or surface bumps if applied in thick layers on skin already prone to congestion
- Allergic contact dermatitis in the rare event of sensitivity to the source fatty acids
- Eye stinging or watering if the product migrates into the eye area before it sets
- Enhanced potency of other actives since the ester’s film can occasionally increase the skin’s absorption of nearby ingredients, which may amplify their own side effects
If any discomfort, rash or unexpected reaction occurs stop use immediately and consult a medical professional
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5. C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester is a large, branched molecule that tends to stay on the skin’s surface and is less likely to seep into pores where true clogging begins. Its fatty acid chain length is balanced by the bulky pentaerythritol core, giving it a low likelihood of hardening inside follicles. Most formulators also use it at moderate percentages alongside lighter emollients, further lowering the risk of congestion. In practical terms this makes the ester generally suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts, especially when used in lightweight lotions or serums. If a formula relies on heavy occlusives in addition to this ester, buildup could still occur, so texture and total composition matter.
Summary
C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester acts as a binder, film former, skin conditioner, emollient and viscosity controller. Its four fatty acid arms give slip and softness while the pentaerythritol backbone provides stability, so it can hold pigments in place, create a flexible moisture-locking veil and fine-tune thickness all at once. Though not yet a household name it is gaining ground in indie and premium lines that want a plant-based alternative to mineral oil and silicone. Safety reviews classify it as a mild, inert ingredient with very low irritation potential. As with any new cosmetic we still recommend a small patch test when first trying products containing this ester just to rule out personal sensitivities.