C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer?

C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer is a silicone based copolymer created by linking long chain alkyl groups, cetearyl dimethicone and a small cyclic molecule called vinyl cyclohexene oxide. The result is a large, branched molecule that forms flexible films on skin and hair.

The ingredient traces its roots to the late 1990s when formulators looked for silicones that delivered a rich, cushiony feel without a greasy finish. By crosslinking dimethicone with wax like alkyl chains, chemists achieved a texture that blends the light glide of silicones with the softness of natural oils. Its popularity grew as brands moved toward “sensorial” formulas that feel luxurious yet weightless.

Manufacture begins with cetearyl dimethicone, a silicone fluid already modified with fatty alcohols derived from plant oils. This fluid is reacted with vinyl cyclohexene oxide under controlled heat and catalyst conditions. The epoxy groups on the oxide open and link multiple dimethicone chains to create a three-dimensional network. The finished polymer is purified, then supplied as a soft wax or dispersed in a carrier oil.

You will most often spot C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer in leave-on skin creams, moisturizers, primers, anti-aging serums, sunscreens, hair conditioners, styling creams and treatment masks. Its silky finish and film forming power make it a favorite for products that promise long lasting smoothness and a soft touch.

C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This versatile polymer performs several helpful jobs in beauty formulas

  • Film forming: Creates an invisible, flexible layer that locks in moisture, improves spreadability and helps makeup or actives stay put longer
  • Hair conditioning: Coats strands to reduce friction, boost shine and tame frizz without weighing hair down
  • Skin conditioning: Leaves skin feeling velvety smooth and cushioned, enhancing overall comfort and slip
  • Emollient: Softens and smooths dry or rough patches, giving products a rich texture that glides easily during application

Who Can Use C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

This soft silicone wax suits most skin types. Dry and normal complexions tend to appreciate its cushioned feel while combination and oily skin can usually enjoy the lightweight finish without an oily after-feel. Because it creates a breathable film rather than a heavy seal it rarely aggravates congestion so acne-prone users typically tolerate it well. Extremely sensitive skin may still prefer a brief trial since any film former has the small chance of trapping heat or actives that can cause redness in reactive complexions.

The polymer is made from synthetic silicones and fatty alcohols that are sourced from plants or petrochemicals, not animals, so it is considered suitable for both vegans and vegetarians.

No specific warnings exist for pregnant or breastfeeding women. The molecule is too large to penetrate deeply and has no known hormonal activity, yet this is not medical advice and anyone who is pregnant or nursing should run new products past a healthcare professional to be on the safe side.

C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer does not absorb UV light or make skin more sensitive to the sun, so it is not regarded as photosensitizing. It can actually enhance the water resistance of sunscreens by anchoring UV filters in place.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer vary from person to person. The points below list potential side effects that have been reported in rare cases. When used in properly formulated products most people will not experience any of these issues.

  • Mild transient redness or stinging in very sensitive skin immediately after application
  • Acne flare ups in users already prone to clogged pores if the product also contains heavy oils or waxes
  • Build-up on hair leading to dullness if cleansers are not strong enough to remove the silicone film over time
  • Allergic contact dermatitis though true allergy to this polymer is considered extremely rare
  • Reduced absorption of active ingredients if layered incorrectly because the film can slow penetration of water-based serums applied afterward

If you experience any persistent irritation or other negative reaction stop using the product and consult a qualified healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 (very low)

This crosslinked silicone stays on the surface as a light, breathable film so it rarely blocks pores. It contains no heavy fatty acids that typically worsen breakouts and the levels used in formulas are small.

Generally considered suitable for acne-prone skin, though overall product composition still matters.

If you layer several silicone-rich products the residue can build up and mix with sebum, which could lead to congestion unless skin is cleansed thoroughly.

Summary

C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer forms a flexible film, conditions skin and hair, improves spreadability and lends a soft emollient finish. Its branched structure lets it glide on thinly yet hold moisture and active ingredients in place.

The ingredient is prized for the plush feel it gives moisturizers, primers and sunscreens so it appears in many modern formulas even if it is not a headline grabber like vitamin C or retinol.

Research along with long market use shows it is non irritating, non sensitizing and very low on the comedogenic scale. Still, trying a small patch first is a smart move when introducing any new product to your routine.

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