Calothrix Crustacea: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using The Personal Care Products Council's (PCPC) INCI database. Our ingredient analyses are based exclusively on PCPC's technical data to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Calothrix Crustacea?

Calothrix Crustacea is a aquatic blue-green bacterium known for its rich mix of proteins, polysaccharides and minerals. It grows naturally on moist rocks and coastal surfaces where it forms thin mats that help it trap water and nutrients. This moisture-binding talent is what first caught the eye of skincare researchers in the early 2000s when brands began searching for new botanical and marine hydrators.

To prepare it for cosmetics, controlled cultures of the bacterium are grown in clean water tanks under low light. Once the cells reach peak density they are harvested, filtered and gently dried. The dried biomass is then milled into a fine powder or extracted with water to pull out the humectant sugars. The final material is standardized to ensure batch-to-batch consistency before it goes into formulations.

You will most often spot Calothrix Crustacea in hydrating masks, lightweight moisturizers, after-sun gels, anti-aging serums and leave-on treatments aimed at soothing dryness or boosting skin softness.

Calothrix Crustacea’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

In formulas Calothrix Crustacea serves a couple of key roles that improve how a product feels and performs on the skin.

  • Humectant – its natural sugars draw water from the environment and hold it at the skin surface helping keep the complexion plump and comfortable throughout the day
  • Skin Conditioning – the blend of proteins and trace minerals forms a light film that smooths rough texture, supports softness and gives skin a refreshed look

Who Can Use Calothrix Crustacea

Calothrix Crustacea is gentle enough for most skin types, including dry, normal, combination and oily skins that want weightless hydration. Very sensitive or highly reactive skin may wish to introduce it gradually because the ingredient is still relatively new and individual tolerances can differ.

The bacterium is grown in closed tanks without any animal-derived nutrients so the finished material is suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

No specific warnings have been issued for pregnant or breastfeeding women when Calothrix Crustacea is used topically in cosmetic concentrations. There is little published safety data in these groups though, so this information is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should confirm product choices with a doctor.

The ingredient is not known to cause photosensitivity and can be used in both daytime and night-time routines.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects and reactions to topical Calothrix Crustacea vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues only and most users will not encounter them when the ingredient has been correctly formulated and preserved.

  • Mild stinging or burning in very sensitive skin
  • Redness or itching due to an individual allergy to cyanobacteria proteins
  • Contact dermatitis if the extract is contaminated or improperly preserved
  • Breakouts in extremely acne-prone skin if the final formula contains occlusive companions

If any irritation, rash or discomfort develops discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1 / 5 – Calothrix Crustacea is highly water-soluble and contains virtually no heavy oils or waxes that could block pores. Its primary action is to bind moisture at the skin surface rather than create an occlusive seal, so the risk of pore congestion is very low.

This makes the ingredient generally suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts, provided the rest of the formula is also lightweight and non-comedogenic.

Because it relies on proper preservation, spoiled or poorly formulated products could still trigger flare-ups, though this is a formulation issue rather than a property of the bacterium itself.

Summary

Calothrix Crustacea functions mainly as a humectant and skin-conditioning agent. Its natural sugars pull ambient water toward the skin, helping maintain hydration, while its proteins and minerals leave a soft, smooth finish.

Although not yet a mainstream staple, interest is growing as brands explore sustainable marine ingredients that deliver weightless hydration.

Topical use appears safe for most skin types with low allergenic potential, but as with any new product it is wise to do a quick patch test to confirm personal tolerance.

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