Carboxymethyl Disulfide Keratin: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Carboxymethyl Disulfide Keratin?

Carboxymethyl Disulfide Keratin is a specialty form of keratin protein that comes from sheep wool. Regular keratin already contains sulfur links called disulfide bonds. During manufacture these bonds are first opened, then reacted with a mild carboxymethyl solution and finally re-linked. The process locks new carboxymethyl groups to the sulfur sites, giving the protein extra water-friendly sites while keeping its natural strength.

The idea of reworking wool keratin started in the mid-20th century when scientists looked for ways to recycle textile waste into beauty care. Over time labs learned how to fine-tune the reaction so the protein stays soluble and easy to blend into modern formulas. Today most suppliers produce it in closed vessels that control pH, heat and oxygen to protect the fragile protein chains. After reaction the liquid is filtered, dried and milled into a fine powder that dissolves in water-based systems.

You will most often find Carboxymethyl Disulfide Keratin in rinse-out and leave-in hair conditioners, repair masks, deep treatment ampoules, strengthening shampoos and some styling creams aimed at damaged or chemically treated hair.

Carboxymethyl Disulfide Keratin’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This ingredient is prized for one main job in beauty care.

Hair conditioning: Carboxymethyl Disulfide Keratin deposits protein fragments that can fill worn spots in the cuticle, smooth rough strands and boost overall shine. Because the carboxymethyl groups pull in moisture, the hair also feels softer and less prone to breakage after use.

Who Can Use Carboxymethyl Disulfide Keratin

This ingredient is considered gentle enough for all skin and scalp types including dry, oily and sensitive because it does not radically change pH or deposit harsh film formers. People with a known wool or animal protein allergy should proceed with caution since the source material is sheep wool.

Carboxymethyl Disulfide Keratin is not suitable for vegans because it is animal derived. Most vegetarians who are comfortable with wool products may find it acceptable yet those following a stricter vegetarian lifestyle might still prefer to avoid it.

Current safety data show no specific risks for pregnant or breastfeeding women when the protein is used topically and rinsed off, however this is not medical advice. Anyone who is pregnant or nursing should share their full haircare routine with a qualified healthcare provider before starting a new product just to be safe.

The ingredient does not increase photosensitivity so there is no added need for extra sun protection beyond normal everyday practices.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Side effects from topical Carboxymethyl Disulfide Keratin vary from person to person. The points below list potential issues although most users will experience none of them when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Allergic contact dermatitis resulting in redness itching or small bumps
  • Mild scalp irritation such as tingling or stinging during application
  • Product buildup that can leave hair feeling heavy or greasy if not rinsed thoroughly
  • Sulfuric or “wet wool” odor in high concentrations which some users may find unpleasant

If you notice any of these reactions stop using the product and seek guidance from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 0-1 (generally considered non-comedogenic). Carboxymethyl Disulfide Keratin is a water-soluble protein with no heavy oils or waxes that could clog pores. It rinses away easily and does not leave an occlusive film which is why it scores at the very low end of the scale.

Because of this low rating the ingredient is typically suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.

Most formulas use it at modest levels so any risk of pore blockage comes more from the surrounding creamy base than from the protein itself.

Summary

Carboxymethyl Disulfide Keratin is mainly added to hair care for its conditioning power. The modified protein slips into damaged spots along the cuticle, attracts moisture and leaves strands smoother stronger and shinier.

It is a niche ingredient found in repair masks, high-end conditioners and some strengthening shampoos rather than in everyday mainstream lines yet formulators who target damaged or chemically treated hair value its performance.

Topical use is considered safe for most people with the main caution being possible allergy to wool proteins. As with any new cosmetic it is wise to do a small patch test first before fully committing just to be on the safe side.

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