What Is Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate?
Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is a specialty ester blend made by joining lauric acid, a fatty acid from coconut or palm oil, with the natural amino acid L-glutamic acid. This fatty-acid link is then attached to three moisturising alcohols: cholesterol, behenyl alcohol and octyldodecanol. The result is a wax-like ingredient that mimics some of the lipids found in our skin’s own protective barrier.
The ingredient was introduced in the early 2000s when formulators were searching for plant-based alternatives to animal-derived skin conditioners. By combining well-known skin lipids with a renewable amino acid base, manufacturers created a mild, skin-friendly material ideal for modern clean-beauty formulas.
Production starts with fermentation-derived L-glutamic acid that is reacted with lauric acid to form lauroyl glutamate. This intermediate is then esterified in carefully controlled steps with cholesterol, behenyl alcohol and octyldodecanol. The final mixture is purified into a soft powder or flakes that readily melt into emulsions.
You will most often see Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate in moisturisers, barrier-repair creams, anti-aging serums, sleeping masks and soothing after-sun products. It is also popular in premium body lotions, hand creams and lip treatments where a rich yet non-greasy feel is desired.
Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This multitasking lipid brings two key benefits to skincare formulas
- Skin conditioning: The ingredient blends smoothly into the skin surface filling in microscopic gaps between skin cells. This leaves skin feeling softer and more supple while giving products a silky touch and improved spreadability.
- Skin protecting: By reinforcing the skin’s natural lipid barrier it helps slow water loss and shields against everyday irritants. This makes the skin less prone to dryness flaking or redness especially in harsh weather or after cleansing.
Who Can Use Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
This lipid blend suits most skin types especially those that lean dry normal or mature because it helps rebuild the moisture barrier and leaves a cushiony feel. Combination skin usually tolerates it well too. Very oily or acne-prone skin may find rich formulas with high levels of the ingredient a bit heavy so lighter lotions are preferable in that case.
Although the material can be sourced from plant sterols many suppliers still use cholesterol that comes from lanolin. Because of this the ingredient is not automatically vegan friendly. Vegetarians are generally comfortable with lanolin-derived ingredients but strict vegans should confirm the origin with the brand before purchasing.
Current safety data shows no reproductive toxicity so products containing this ester are considered suitable for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone who is expecting or nursing should run new skincare products past a qualified healthcare provider just to be safe.
Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and you can use it day or night without extra sun precautions beyond your regular SPF.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate vary from person to person. The following points list potential side effects that could occur even though they are uncommon when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.
- Mild stinging or redness on very sensitive skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals with a specific sensitivity to sterols or fatty alcohols
- Temporary breakouts or clogged pores in those highly prone to acne if the finished product is overly rich for their skin
- Enhanced penetration of other active ingredients in the same formula which can sometimes intensify irritation caused by those actives
If you experience any of the above discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 2/5
This ester blend contains cholesterol and behenyl alcohol which are generally regarded as low on the comedogenic scale, balanced by octyldodecanol which sits closer to the middle. Combined they create a rich yet breathable lipid that rarely blocks pores unless used at very high levels or in extremely occlusive formulas.
Suitable for most breakout-prone users when included in light to mid-weight creams but those with stubborn acne may prefer to limit it or choose gel textures.
The ingredient can soften the stratum corneum which sometimes enhances absorption of heavier oils in the same product so overall formula design affects clogging potential more than the ester itself.
Summary
Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate acts as a skin-conditioning and skin-protecting agent by slotting into the spaces between skin cells, topping up lost lipids and slowing water escape. Its cholesterol-like structure reinforces the barrier while the behenyl and octyldodecyl portions give a smooth glide that improves product feel.
You will mainly find it in mid to high-end moisturisers and barrier creams where brands look for plant-forward alternatives to animal lipids, so it is popular in niche and clean beauty circles rather than mass market ranges.
Current data shows a very low irritation profile and no major safety concerns which makes it suitable for daily use on most skin types. As with any new skincare product it is wise to do a quick patch test first to check for personal sensitivities.