What Is Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate?
Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is a skin-conditioning ester created by linking cholesterol and octyldodecanol with lauroyl glutamic acid, an amino-acid derivative. The ingredient draws on two naturally occurring components: cholesterol, which is a lipid found in skin, and glutamic acid, an amino acid obtained from plant sources such as sugar beet or corn. Octyldodecanol is a long-chain fatty alcohol often sourced from vegetable oils. Chemists combine these building blocks through esterification, a reaction that joins the fatty segments to the glutamic acid backbone. The result is a soft, oil-like substance that blends easily into cosmetic emulsions.
The compound gained traction in the early 2000s when formulators were searching for gentler alternatives to standard fatty acids that could mimic the skin’s own lipids. Its similarity to natural skin components helped it appear in Japanese and European skincare lines before spreading to global brands. Because it improves texture and supports the skin barrier, manufacturers add it to moisturizers, creams, anti-aging serums, sheet masks, cleansing balms and makeup primers. It also shows up in soothing after-sun products and gentle baby lotions.
Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
The main role of Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate in skincare is skin conditioning, meaning it helps keep the surface of the skin soft, smooth and healthy. It supplies lipid-like molecules that reinforce the skin barrier, reducing moisture loss and improving overall hydration. Its silky feel also enhances the spreadability of creams and lotions, giving formulas a light non-greasy finish that consumers enjoy.
Who Can Use Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
This lipid-like ester is gentle enough for most skin types. Dry, normal and combination skin benefit most because the ingredient reinforces the moisture barrier and leaves a soft finish. Oily or acne-prone skin can usually tolerate it as well since it has a light, non-sticky texture, though anyone highly sensitive to fatty alcohols may prefer to monitor how their skin reacts.
Because cholesterol in cosmetics is typically sourced from lanolin or other animal derivatives, Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is usually not considered vegan friendly. Vegetarians who avoid animal-derived ingredients may also wish to steer clear unless the brand certifies a plant-based or synthetic cholesterol alternative.
Current safety data do not flag this ingredient as problematic for pregnancy or breastfeeding. It is not known to penetrate deeply or disrupt hormones. Still, this is not medical advice and those who are pregnant or nursing should show any new skincare product to their healthcare provider just to be safe.
The molecule does not introduce photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. As with any lipid-rich component it can slightly alter the feel of lightweight formulas, but no other special usage notes stand out.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Reactions to topical Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate vary from person to person. The side effects listed below are possible yet uncommon when the ingredient is used in well-formulated products.
- Mild irritation – a small number of users may experience temporary redness or stinging, especially if skin is already compromised
- Contact allergy – rare cases of allergic dermatitis may occur in individuals sensitive to cholesterol derivatives or glutamic acid esters
- Breakouts – very oily or highly acne-prone skin could see clogged pores if the formula is overly rich or layered with other heavy products
If any of these effects appear discontinue use and seek guidance from a healthcare professional
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 out of 5. Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is a lightweight ester that mimics the skin’s own lipids without creating a heavy occlusive film, so it is very unlikely to clog pores at the low concentrations used in cosmetics. Most formulators choose it for silky slip rather than intense richness, which keeps its pore blocking potential minimal.
Suitable for acne-prone or breakout-prone skin in most cases.
The final product formula still matters: if the ingredient sits alongside thick butters or waxes, overall comedogenicity can climb even though this single component stays low.
Summary
Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is mainly a skin-conditioning agent that reinforces the moisture barrier, smooths rough texture and boosts the spreadability of creams and lotions. It does this by supplying cholesterol-like lipids and fatty alcohol segments that slot into the skin’s outer layer, reducing water loss and leaving a soft finish.
The ingredient enjoys moderate popularity. It shows up in Japanese and European skin care plus a handful of global brands, but has not become as ubiquitous as classic emollients like glycerin or squalane.
Current data show it is low risk for irritation, allergy and pore blockage, making it a generally safe pick for daily use. As with any new cosmetic add a quick patch test to confirm personal tolerance.