Choleth-15: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Choleth-15?

Choleth-15 is a synthetic ingredient created by attaching about 15 units of ethylene oxide to cholesterol, the waxy substance found naturally in animal cells. The result is a non ionic surfactant that mixes oily and watery materials with ease. First explored by chemists looking for gentle cholesterol-based cleansers in the late 1970s, it gained traction in the 1980s as brands searched for milder alternatives to traditional detergents. The manufacturing process starts with highly purified pharmaceutical grade cholesterol that is reacted with ethylene oxide under controlled temperature and pressure, producing a viscous liquid that is then blended into cosmetic bases. Thanks to its dual love for oil and water it shows up in facial cleansers, makeup removers, clay and cream masks, lightweight moisturizers, anti-aging serums, hair conditioners and even some self-tanning lotions.

Choleth-15’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Formulators rely on Choleth-15 for two main reasons that both improve texture and performance

  • Cleansing: Its surfactant nature lifts dirt, sebum and makeup from skin or hair allowing them to rinse away easily which helps create gentle yet effective cleansers and makeup removers
  • Emulsifying: Choleth-15 stabilizes blends of oil and water so creams, lotions and masks stay smooth and do not separate giving products a pleasant, consistent feel throughout their shelf life

Who Can Use Choleth-15

Because it is a mild non ionic surfactant Choleth-15 is generally well tolerated by most skin types including normal, oily, combination and even sensitive skin that can react to harsher cleansers. Very dry or eczema-prone skin may find it not replenishing enough on its own so pairing it with richer emollients is helpful.

The ingredient is synthesized from cholesterol that is usually sourced from animal origins which makes it unsuitable for vegans and strict vegetarians. A few specialty suppliers offer versions made from plant sterols but these are not yet common in mass market formulas so label readers should verify origin with the brand.

Current safety data do not flag Choleth-15 as problematic for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding because it stays on the skin surface and is used at low percentages. That said this information is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should run all skincare choices past a healthcare professional to be on the safe side.

Choleth-15 does not increase photosensitivity so there is no special need for sun avoidance beyond regular daily SPF habits.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Choleth-15 differ from person to person. The following list covers potential effects but most users will not notice any problems when the ingredient is formulated and used correctly.

  • Mild skin irritation
  • Temporary dryness or tightness if used in high-foaming cleansers without follow-up hydration
  • Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to cholesterol derivatives or ethoxylated surfactants
  • Eye stinging or redness if the product is accidentally rubbed into eyes
  • Scalp irritation in leave-on hair products for very sensitive users

If any discomfort redness or swelling appears stop using the product and seek advice from a dermatologist or healthcare provider.

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5

Choleth-15 is classed as a low risk ingredient for clogging pores because it is water soluble and quickly rinses off the skin. Unlike heavier oils or waxes it does not linger inside pores or leave an occlusive film that could trap dead cells and sebum. Its main job is to help oils and water mix then wash away which keeps residue to a minimum. For these reasons most people prone to acne or breakouts can use products containing Choleth-15 without added concern. Those with extremely reactive or oily skin should still assess the full formula since other richer ingredients might influence overall pore clogging potential.

Summary

Choleth-15 works as a mild cleanser and emulsifier, lifting dirt and oil while keeping lotions and creams from separating. It does this by pairing the oil-loving part of cholesterol with a water-loving chain of ethylene oxide units, allowing it to sit comfortably at the boundary between oil and water and pull them together.

The ingredient has a quiet reputation compared with buzzier actives like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide, yet formulators reach for it when they want a gentle surfactant that feels silky and stabilizes emulsions without fuss.

Current data show Choleth-15 is safe at the low levels used in cosmetics, with only rare irritation reported. As with any new skincare product it is wise to perform a small patch test first to confirm personal compatibility.

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