Crotonic Acid/Vinyl C8-12 Isoalkyl Esters/Va/Bis-Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 24, 2025
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All information on this page is verified using publicly available nomenclature standards and reference materials from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and the European Commission's CosIng database. Our analyses are based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Crotonic Acid/Vinyl C8-12 Isoalkyl Esters/Va/Bis-Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer?

Crotonic Acid/Vinyl C8-12 Isoalkyl Esters/VA/Bis-Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer is a lab-made copolymer created by linking together small building-block molecules of crotonic acid, vinyl C8-12 isoalkyl esters and vinyl acetate, then crosslinking the chain with bis-vinyldimethicone. The mix blends water-loving and silicone-based parts, giving it a flexible structure that clings well to hair or skin while still feeling lightweight. It was developed in the late 1990s when chemists searched for more humidity-resistant film formers that did not leave a stiff or flaky feel. The ingredient is manufactured in closed reactors where the monomers are combined, heated and triggered by catalysts to form long chains, followed by a controlled crosslinking step that locks in elasticity. After purification and drying, the resulting fine powder or viscous resin is dispersed into cosmetic bases.

You will most often spot this copolymer in styling gels, mousses, hairsprays, leave-in creams, long-wear brow gels, waterproof mascaras and certain transfer-resistant foundations or primers. Its blend of organic and silicone segments lets it sit comfortably on both hair and skin, making it a go-to for products that need flexible hold or smudge resistance without a heavy build-up.

Crotonic Acid/Vinyl C8-12 Isoalkyl Esters/Va/Bis-Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

This multi-tasking copolymer supports formulas in several ways

  • Film forming: Creates an even, breathable layer that helps pigments or styling agents stay put against sweat, oil and light water contact which boosts wear time and humidity resistance
  • Hair conditioning: Smooths the cuticle so strands feel softer, look shinier and tangle less while reducing static and frizz
  • Hair fixing: Provides flexible hold that keeps styles in place yet allows natural movement preventing crunchy or flaky residue

Who Can Use Crotonic Acid/Vinyl C8-12 Isoalkyl Esters/VA/Bis-Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer

This copolymer is considered gentle enough for most skin and scalp types. Its large molecular size keeps it on the surface so it rarely aggravates dry or sensitive skin and will not clog oily or acne-prone skin when used in standard amounts. People with very reactive or allergy-prone skin should still scan the full ingredient list of a product to rule out other triggers but the polymer itself is not known to cause problems for any specific skin group.

Because the ingredient is entirely synthetic with no animal-derived components it is suitable for vegans and vegetarians. The raw materials and processing aids are petrochemical or mineral based rather than sourced from livestock or insects.

No current data links the topical use of this polymer to hormonal disruption or fetal risk, which means it is generally viewed as safe for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should check with a healthcare professional before starting new personal care products.

The polymer does not make skin more sensitive to sunlight and it plays well with sunscreens so users do not need extra photo-protection beyond their usual routine.

It is also odorless and non-volatile so it suits people bothered by strong fragrances or alcohol driven sprays.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Responses to topical Crotonic Acid/Vinyl C8-12 Isoalkyl Esters/VA/Bis-Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer vary from person to person. The effects below are possible not probable and most consumers will not encounter them when the ingredient is formulated correctly.

  • Mild skin redness or itching
  • Temporary scalp buildup or dullness if product is not washed out thoroughly
  • Eye irritation if a styling spray or mascara containing the polymer gets directly into the eyes
  • Rare allergic contact dermatitis in individuals already sensitized to acrylic or silicone based resins

If any discomfort swelling or persistent irritation occurs discontinue use and consult a healthcare provider

Comedogenic Rating

Rating: 1/5. The molecule is large and sits on the surface instead of seeping into pores so it is unlikely to trap sebum or dead skin. Its silicone crosslinks form a breathable lattice rather than a heavy occlusive coat and the vinyl segments rinse away with regular cleanser which further reduces clogging risk.

Because of the low rating it is generally considered suitable for people who are prone to acne or breakouts.

As with most film formers buildup can occur if products are layered repeatedly without proper cleansing so a thorough wash at day’s end helps keep pores clear.

Summary

Crotonic Acid/Vinyl C8-12 Isoalkyl Esters/VA/Bis-Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer acts mainly as a film former, hair conditioner and flexible fixative. Its mix of water friendly vinyl portions and slick silicone links lets it spread smoothly then set into a thin network that locks pigment or style in place, blocks humidity and adds light gloss without stiffness.

The ingredient enjoys steady but niche use in styling aids, long wear makeup and brow or lash products where durable yet comfortable hold is valued. It is not as famous as classic hairspray resins yet formulators appreciate its balance of performance and feel.

Safety reviews show very low irritation or sensitization rates and no evidence of systemic toxicity. Most users can apply it with confidence though, as with any new cosmetic, doing a small patch test is a smart precaution.

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