Datem: What Is It, Cosmetic Uses, Benefits & Side Effects

Curious about this ingredient? In this article we're explaining exactly what it is and why it's used within cosmetic formulations.
Updated on: June 27, 2025
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We verify all information on this page using publicly available nomenclature standards from The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), the European Commission's CosIng database and documentation provided directly by ingredient manufacturers. Our analysis is based on technical data from these sources to ensure accuracy and reliability.

What Is Datem?

Datem is the cosmetic name for diacetyl tartaric acid esters of mono and diglycerides, a mouthful that simply describes fatty parts of natural oils joined with tartaric and acetic acids. Manufacturers start with plant-based oils such as sunflower or soybean, split them into glycerides then react them with the food-grade acids under heat. The result is a smooth wax-like substance that dissolves well in both water and oil phases, making it a handy helper in many beauty formulas.

First introduced in the 1930s to keep bread dough light, Datem’s mixing talent quickly caught the eye of cosmetic chemists. By the late 20th century it had moved from bakeries to skincare labs, valued for its gentle feel and ability to keep creams stable without hefty synthetic additives.

Today you will spot Datem in moisturizers, lightweight lotions, rinse-off cleansers, sheet masks, leave-in and rinse-out hair conditioners, styling creams, body butters and even some anti-aging treatments where a steady, velvety texture is key.

Datem’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses

Datem pulls double, even triple duty in beauty products thanks to the range of jobs it can handle

  • Hair Conditioning: coats the hair shaft so strands feel softer smoother and are easier to detangle
  • Skin Conditioning: leaves a supple finish on the skin surface reducing roughness and helping it look healthier
  • Emollient: fills in tiny gaps between skin cells locking in moisture and giving formulas a silky glide
  • Cleansing: lifts away daily grime and excess oil without stripping leaving skin and scalp comfortable
  • Emulsifying: keeps water and oil mixed so creams do not separate ensuring a consistent texture from first use to last

Who Can Use Datem

Datem is generally considered suitable for all skin types including dry, normal, combination and even oily skin because it is lightweight and non occlusive. Extremely acne prone users may want to monitor how their skin responds since the ingredient is derived from oils, but in most formulas it sits low on the comedogenic scale and rinses cleanly.

The ingredient is almost always produced from plant oils so it is typically vegan and vegetarian friendly. If animal by-products are a concern, a quick check with the brand will confirm the oil source and any processing aids used.

Current safety reviews do not flag Datem as problematic for pregnant or breastfeeding women when applied topically, yet this is not medical advice. Anyone expecting or nursing should bring the full ingredient list of their products to their healthcare provider for personalized guidance.

Datem does not increase photosensitivity, so it will not make skin more prone to sunburn. It also plays nicely with common actives such as retinoids or vitamin C because it is an inert emulsifier and conditioner rather than a reactive acid or base.

Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions

Reactions to topical Datem vary from person to person. The effects listed below are only potential outcomes and are not expected for the average user, provided the ingredient has been correctly formulated and used at standard concentrations.

  • Mild skin irritation
  • Contact allergy presenting as redness itching or small bumps
  • Occasional clogged pores or breakouts in very acne prone skin
  • Transient eye stinging if the product accidentally gets into the eyes

If you experience any of the issues above discontinue use and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

Comedogenic Rating

Datem earns a comedogenic rating of 1 out of 5. Its fatty acid backbone could, in theory, sit on the skin surface, yet the molecule is bulky and highly esterified which limits its ability to wedge into pores. Most formulas use it at low concentrations and often in rinse-off or lightweight leave-on products that do not linger heavily on the skin. Because of this low score Datem is generally suitable for people prone to acne or breakouts. Do keep in mind that overall product design, percentage used and the presence of other occlusive ingredients can raise or lower the real-world risk.

Summary

Datem acts as a multipurpose helper that conditions hair, softens skin, works as an emollient, adds mild cleansing power and stabilizes oil-and-water blends. It manages these tasks thanks to its split personality structure: the fatty tail loves oils while the tartaric-acetic head loves water, letting it bridge the two phases and leave a silky film wherever it is applied.

Although celebrated in the baking world, Datem stays more behind the scenes in cosmetics, quietly boosting product texture and feel rather than grabbing headlines like hyaluronic acid or retinol. Chemists appreciate its plant origin and reliable performance so you will keep spotting it in lotions, conditioners and masks even if it is not splashed across the label.

Safety reviews find Datem non-sensitizing and non-toxic at the levels used in personal care. Still, every skin is unique so it is smart to patch test any new product and watch for irritation before applying it more broadly.

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