What Is Dea-Cyclocarboxypropyloleate?
Dea-Cyclocarboxypropyloleate is a lab-made ingredient created by joining a modified form of oleic acid with diethanolamine. The final molecule, 5( or 6)-carboxy-4-hexylcyclohex-2-ene-1-octanoic acid compound with 2,2′-iminodiethanol, behaves like a gentle surfactant and texture helper. Chemists first explored it in the late 1980s while searching for milder, more versatile cleansing agents that could also keep water and oils blended in one stable mix. Production starts with plant-sourced fatty acids, usually from sunflower or rapeseed oil, that are esterified then cyclized and finally combined with pharmaceutical-grade diethanolamine under controlled heat and pH. The result is a clear to pale-yellow liquid that dissolves well in water and oil, giving formulators an easy-to-use multitasker.
You will most often spot Dea-Cyclocarboxypropyloleate in facial cleansers, body washes, micellar waters, makeup removers, shampoos, lightweight lotions and leave-on skin treatments where a smooth non-greasy feel is wanted.
Dea-Cyclocarboxypropyloleate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
This ingredient brings two key technical skills to a formula, each translating to a user-friendly benefit.
- Cleansing: Its surfactant action lifts away dirt, oil and makeup without stripping the skin or hair of natural moisture, helping products foam softly and rinse clean
- Emulsifying: It keeps water and oil phases blended so creams and gels stay uniform from the first pump to the last swipe, improving shelf life and giving a silky, even texture on application
Who Can Use Dea-Cyclocarboxypropyloleate
Thanks to its mild cleansing profile and balanced oil-in-water behavior, Dea-Cyclocarboxypropyloleate is generally well tolerated by normal, oily, combination and sensitive skin. Extremely dry or eczema-prone skin may prefer richer cleansers because the ingredient is more focused on gentle removal of grime than deep lipid replenishment.
The fatty acid portion is sourced from plants such as sunflower or rapeseed so the ingredient is suitable for vegans and vegetarians provided the finished product contains no other animal-derived additives.
No specific reproductive toxicity has been linked to topical use of this compound. Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals can typically use products containing it, though this is not medical advice and anyone in these life stages should confirm suitability with a healthcare professional.
Dea-Cyclocarboxypropyloleate does not heighten photosensitivity and there are no known sun-related interactions. It is also fragrance-free and gluten-free which may matter to certain users.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical Dea-Cyclocarboxypropyloleate vary from person to person. The points below outline potential but uncommon effects when the ingredient is used in properly formulated cosmetics; most people will not encounter these issues.
- Mild skin irritation such as transient redness or tingling, especially on compromised or freshly exfoliated skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals sensitive to diethanolamine derivatives
- Eye stinging or watering if a cleanser containing it is not fully rinsed away
- Scalp or hair residue and dullness if a shampoo with a high inclusion level is inadequately rinsed
- Breakouts in acne-prone skin if the product formula also contains heavy oils and is not rinsed off
- Theoretical nitrosamine formation when the ingredient is combined with certain preservatives in a poorly controlled manufacturing environment
If any irritation, rash or other adverse effect develops stop using the product and consult a qualified healthcare provider.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1 / 5
Dea-Cyclocarboxypropyloleate is based on a fatty acid but its structure has been changed to be mostly water soluble, so it does not sit on skin the way pure oils do. Cleansing action also means any residue is usually rinsed away, further lowering clogging risk. A few users with very oily or congested skin might notice issues if the overall formula contains heavy emollients, yet the ingredient itself is unlikely to block pores. It is generally suitable for acne-prone skin.
Because it contains a diethanolamine portion, manufacturers must control pH and pairing preservatives to avoid by-products that could irritate skin and indirectly worsen breakouts, but this is addressed in modern formulations.
Summary
Dea-Cyclocarboxypropyloleate works as a mild cleanser and an emulsifier. It lifts dirt and makeup with a soft foam then keeps water and oils blended so products stay smooth and stable. While not a headline ingredient, it has a quiet popularity in gentle face washes, micellar waters and lightweight lotions where formulators need a two-in-one helper that feels non-greasy.
Current data shows it is safe for topical use with low irritation and very low comedogenic risk when properly formulated. As with any new cosmetic, perform a small patch test first so you can be sure your skin likes it.