What Is Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate?
Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate is an ester produced when malic acid, a naturally occurring fruit acid, reacts with medium-chain fatty alcohols that contain 12–13 carbon atoms. These alcohols are typically sourced from renewable plant oils such as coconut or palm kernel, although fully synthetic versions exist. The result is a silky, oil-like substance that is clear or pale yellow and practically odorless.
The ingredient gained traction in the late 1990s as formulators searched for lightweight alternatives to heavier mineral and animal-derived oils. Its rise coincided with consumer demand for plant-based, fast-absorbing emollients that leave less residue on the skin. Production involves a straightforward esterification process: malic acid is heated with the chosen fatty alcohols in the presence of a catalyst, water is removed, and the mixture is purified to yield a stable ester with a long shelf life.
Because of its smooth skin feel and excellent spreadability, Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate shows up in a wide range of topical cosmetics. You can find it in facial moisturizers, anti-aging serums, sunscreens, primers, BB creams, lip balms, body lotions and wash-off masks where it helps create a soft, non-greasy finish.
Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate’s Cosmetic Benefits/Uses
In formulas, Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate serves two main roles that translate into noticeable benefits on the skin
- Skin conditioning: Forms a breathable layer that smooths rough patches, leaving skin feeling soft and supple while improving overall texture
- Emollient: Fills in the gaps between skin cells to prevent moisture loss, enhances spreadability of creams and makeup, and imparts a lightweight, velvety finish without a heavy or greasy afterfeel
Who Can Use Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate
This lightweight emollient works well for most skin types. Oily and combination skins appreciate its non greasy feel while normal and mildly dry skins enjoy the extra softness it provides. Very dry or compromised barrier skins may need to pair it with a heavier occlusive for lasting comfort. The molecule is non ionic and generally gentle so sensitive skin usually tolerates it without issues.
Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate is produced from plant derived fatty alcohols or fully synthetic sources and contains no animal by-products, making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians.
The ingredient is considered low risk for pregnant or breastfeeding women because it stays on the surface of the skin and has no known hormonal activity. This is not medical advice and anyone expecting or nursing should run their entire skincare routine past a qualified doctor to be safe.
It does not increase photosensitivity, so there is no special daytime caution beyond the normal recommendation to wear sunscreen.
Potential Side Effects/Adverse Reactions
Responses to topical ingredients vary from person to person, and the following points list possible but uncommon reactions. In properly formulated products most users experience none of these effects.
- Mild transient redness or stinging in very sensitive skin
- Allergic contact dermatitis in individuals allergic to malic acid derivatives or fatty alcohols
- Isolated cases of clogged pores in extremely acne prone skin when used in high concentrations
- Rare interaction with other rich emollients leading to a heavy feel or shine on very oily skin
If any irritation, swelling or breakouts occur discontinue use and consult a healthcare professional.
Comedogenic Rating
Rating: 1/5
Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate is a lightweight ester with a branched structure that spreads easily and absorbs quickly rather than sitting heavy on the skin, which keeps the likelihood of pore clogging low. It lacks the long chain saturated fats typically linked to high comedogenic scores. Laboratory tests and anecdotal feedback from formulators place it near the bottom of the scale, though any oil-like material can become problematic if used at very high levels or layered with multiple rich products.
Most people prone to acne or breakouts can use it without issues, especially when it appears mid-list or lower on an ingredient label.
The final impact also depends on the full formula: pairing it with highly occlusive waxes or thick silicones could raise the overall clogging potential while a lightweight gel cream base keeps it virtually non-comedogenic.
Summary
Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate serves mainly as a skin-conditioning emollient. By filling microscopic gaps between skin cells it reduces moisture loss, smooths rough texture and gives creams and makeup a silky glide without the greasy residue associated with heavier oils. Its medium-chain structure lets it sink in fast so products feel light yet still deliver a soft, velvety finish.
The ester has gained steady but not blockbuster popularity since the late 1990s, showing up most often in modern moisturizers, sunscreens and color-cosmetics that aim for a weightless skin feel.
Overall safety is high: it is non reactive, stable and rarely triggers irritation or sensitization. As with any new skincare ingredient it is wise to patch test a product first to make sure your individual skin plays nicely with the full formula.